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The State of Fashion 2023: Resilience in the Face of Uncertainty

The State of Fashion 2023 cover key line

  • Imran Amed ,

We have released The State of Fashion 2024 by The Business of Fashion and McKinsey & Company. Download The State of Fashion 2024 now to explore the 10 themes that will define the industry in the year ahead.

Just as the fashion industry was beginning to find its feet after Covid-19′s turmoil, the later months of 2022 seem determined to throw brands and retailers off course again. Deteriorating macroeconomic and geopolitical conditions have weighed heavily on the industry in the second half of the year and continue to leave fashion executives on edge as they look towards 2023.

However, much of the industry is entering this difficult period with strong foundations, having experienced impressive growth in 2021 and in the first half of 2022. As economies around the world began lifting restrictions in 2021 after enduring the pandemic’s devastation, the fashion industry benefitted from a burst of pent-up consumer demand, despite some challenges remaining, like supply chain disruptions. Global industry revenues in 2021 grew 21 percent year on year, while the average EBITA margin close to doubled, growing 6 percentage points. The industry continued its strong performance in early 2022, with 13 percent revenue growth in the first half of the year.

More than 50 percent of the companies tracked by the McKinsey Global Fashion Index contributed to the industry’s total economic profit in 2021, compared to just 32 percent in 2020. The proportion of value destroyers (companies generating negative economic profit) has thus fallen to its lowest since 2013. Our roster of fashion “Super Winners” — the top 20 listed companies by economic profit — comprises many of the usual suspects from the luxury and sportswear categories, while players in the discount segment have also climbed up the list.

But some of these gains were chipped away as 2022 progressed. The war in Ukraine, which started in February, triggered a string of events, including an escalating energy crisis across Europe. Troublesome inflation in many major economies led central banks to roll out back-to-back interest rate hikes, ending a lengthy period of ultra-low and even negative rates, in a bid to temper rising prices and help steer economies away from recession.

Looking ahead to 2023, the drivers contributing to a broad state of global fragility are top of mind for fashion executives. In the BoF-McKinsey State of Fashion 2023 Survey, 85 percent of fashion executives predict inflation will continue to challenge the market next year. Meanwhile, geopolitical tensions, specifically around the ongoing war in Ukraine, have disrupted supply chains and created an energy crisis that 58 percent of executives also believe will weaken the fashion market.

In aggregate, McKinsey expects global fashion sales growth of 5 percent to 10 percent for luxury, and negative 2 percent to positive 3 percent for the rest of the industry in 2023, while the dichotomies that previously defined the fashion business are expected to return. Beyond the differences between luxury and players from other segments, regional differences will be pronounced. The US economy, despite the slowdown, is expected to be more robust than other major global economies — Covid-19 outbreaks and precautions continue in China, while Europe suffers from an energy crisis and a weakened euro against a strong US dollar.

Against this backdrop, the world map for industry growth is shifting. Markets that once showed solid growth potential are now facing a wider range of risks than they once did, ranging from extreme weather conditions to political or social unrest. Other regions such as the Middle East may become new havens of growth, requiring brands to further localise designs, marketing and merchandising to attract new customers. But as fashion executives assess what the new regional realities mean for their businesses, their scenario planning will need to factor in more than financial risks and opportunities.

Fashion companies will need to rethink their operations. Many will update their organisational structures, introducing new roles or elevating existing ones to target key growth opportunities and respond more effectively to risk. Brands may also choose to see the next year as a time to team up with manufacturing partners to sharpen their supply chain strategies. This may involve nearshoring to better respond to fast-shifting consumer demand or leaning more heavily on data analytics and technology to manage inventory efficiently.

Distribution channel mixes are also ripe for reassessment. As e-commerce growth normalises after its pandemic boom, the sheen has started to wear off the direct-to-consumer digital model that propelled many brands over the past decade. As lockdown restrictions lifted, shoppers have made it clear that although they still value online channels — particularly within luxury, where online DTC and third-party platforms will continue to drive growth — shoppers also want brick-and-mortar experiences. Brands will also need to factor in the continued return of international travel to pre-pandemic rates, which will be buoyed by a strong US dollar. Wholesale and physical retail have a new role in revamping customer journeys, requiring brands to look beyond tier-one cities to be physically closer to consumers.

Brands will have to work hard to remain attractive to consumers, given the tough economic environment. Consumer behaviours in 2023 will depend greatly on household incomes. While higher-income households will be less affected by economic pressures and look likely to continue shopping for luxury goods, as in previous downturns, lower-income households will likely cut back or even eliminate discretionary spending, including apparel. Some will trade down, pivoting to value retailers, marked-down items and off-price channels while eschewing full price, premium and mass brands.

All this elevates the importance of brands’ marketing strategies. Brands should use the year ahead to innovate their digital marketing. Budgets will shift to alternative channels that could generate better return on investment than paid social media ads, such retail media networks, while building stronger brand communities. This will feed into distribution channels, as brands will need to seek higher margins and gather more first-party customer data.

Executives are bracing for a tough 2023; leading brands will deploy realistic but bold strategies that combine careful cost control with strategic investments in skills growth.

How brands manage and communicate about issues that are important to consumers will also be critical. Consider sustainability. New and emerging regulations along with heightened consumer awareness of fashion’s contribution to the climate crisis mean that brands will need to be hyper-vigilant about how they talk about their sustainability-related initiatives and achievements to ensure they are not “greenwashing,” which could potentially lead to reputational damage or costly fines.

Brands that effectively navigate industry challenges in 2023 will be better positioned to seize consumer trends. Coming out of the pandemic, formal dress codes remain disrupted, pushing brands to rethink office and special occasion attire. Meanwhile, consumers are increasingly shopping across gender categories, and brands that can adapt their merchandising strategies accordingly will be able to strengthen their relationships with a wider range of consumers.

Executives are bracing for a tough 2023; leading brands will deploy realistic but bold strategies that combine careful cost control with strategic investments in skills growth. Those that recognise that growth will be unpredictable or muted, but still charge forward with investments in innovation throughout their organisations, will find they are in a stronger position to accelerate their businesses when the uncertainty and fragility subside.

The 10 fashion industry themes that will set the agenda in 2023:

1. Global Fragility

Amid the highest inflation in a generation, rising geopolitical tensions, climate crises and sinking consumer confidence in anticipation of an economic downturn, the global economy is in a volatile state. Fashion brands will need careful planning to navigate the many uncertainties and recessionary risks that lie ahead in 2023.

2. Regional Realities

Understanding where to invest globally has never been easy but rising geopolitical uncertainty and uneven post-pandemic economic recoveries, among other factors, will likely make it even more challenging in 2023. Brands can re-evaluate regional growth priorities and hone their strategies so they are more tailored to the geographies in which they operate.

3. Two-Track Spending

Consumers may be impacted differently by the potential economic turbulence in 2023. Depending on factors including disposable income levels, some will postpone or curtail discretionary purchases; others will seek out bargains, increasing demand for resale, rental and off-price. Fashion executives should adapt their business models to protect customer loyalty and avoid diluting their brands.

4. Fluid Fashion

Gender-fluid fashion is gaining greater traction amid changing consumer attitudes towards gender identity and expression. For many brands and retailers, the blurring of the lines between menswear and womenswear will require rethinking their product design, marketing, and in-store and digital shopping experiences.

5. Formalwear Reinvented

Formal attire is taking on new definitions as shoppers rethink how they dress for work, weddings and other special occasions. While offices and events will likely become more casual, special occasions may be dominated by statement-making outfits that consumers rent or buy to stand out when they do decide to dress up.

6. DTC Reckoning

Though brands across price segments and categories have embraced digital direct-to-consumer channels, mounting digital marketing costs and e-commerce readjustments have put the viability of the DTC model into question. To grow, brands will likely need to diversify their channel mix, including wholesale and third-party marketplaces, alongside DTC.

7. Tackling Greenwashing

As the industry continues to grapple with its damaging environmental and social impact, consumers, regulators and other stakeholders may increasingly scrutinise how brands communicate about their sustainability credentials. If brands are to avoid “greenwashing,” they must show that they are making meaningful and credible change while abiding by emerging regulatory requirements.

8. Future-Proofing Manufacturing

Continued disruptions in supply chains are a catalyst for a reconfiguration of global production. Textile manufacturers can create new supply chain models based around vertical integration, nearshoring and small-batch production, enabled by enhanced digitisation.

9. Digital Marketing Reloaded

Recent data rules are spurring a new chapter for digital marketing as customer targeting becomes less effective and more costly. Brands will embrace creative campaigns and new channels such as retail media networks and the metaverse to achieve greater ROI on marketing spend and gather valuable first-party data that can be leveraged to deepen customer relationships.

10. Organisation Overhaul

Successful execution of strategies in 2023 will in part hinge on a company’s alignment around key functions. Fashion executives need a new vision for what the organisation of the future will require, focusing on attracting and retaining top talent, as well as elevating teams and critical C-suite roles to execute on priorities like sustainability and digital acceleration.

Imran Amed

Imran Amed is the Founder, CEO and Editor-in-Chief of The Business of Fashion. Based in London, he shapes BoF’s overall editorial strategy and is the host of The BoF Podcast.

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Join Imran Amed and the BoF Professional Community During London Fashion Week

Join Imran Amed and the BoF Professional Community During London Fashion Week

From analysis of the global fashion and beauty industries to career and personal advice, BoF’s founder and CEO, Imran Amed, will be answering your questions on Sunday, February 18, 2024 during London Fashion Week.

The 10 Themes That Will Define the Fashion Agenda in the Year Ahead

The 10 Themes That Will Define the Fashion Agenda in the Year Ahead

The State of Fashion 2024 breaks down the 10 themes that will define the industry in the year ahead.

The Defining Fashion Stories of 2023

The Defining Fashion Stories of 2023

Imran Amed reviews the most important fashion stories of the year and shares his predictions on what this means for the industry in 2024.

BoF Celebrates VOICES 2023 With Star-Studded Gala

BoF Celebrates VOICES 2023 With Star-Studded Gala

After three days of inspiring talks, guests closed out BoF’s gathering for big thinkers with a black tie gala followed by an intimate performance from Rita Ora — guest starring Billy Porter.

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Sustainability trends and gaps in the textile, apparel and fashion industries

Stefano abbate.

1 Department of Industrial Engineering, University of Naples Federico II, P.Le Tecchio 80, 80125 Naples, Italy

Piera Centobelli

Roberto cerchione.

2 Department of Industrial Engineering, University of Naples Parthenope, Centro Direzionale Di Napoli, Isola C4, 80143 Naples, Italy

Simon Peter Nadeem

3 Centre for Supply Chain Improvement, University of Derby, Kedleston Road, Derby, DE221GB UK

Emanuela Riccio

Associated data.

The datasets generated during and/or analysed during the current study are available from the corresponding author upon reasonable request.

Textile, apparel, and fashion (TAF) industries contribute significantly to global environmental pollution at every point of the supply chain. Clothing manufacturing and transportation produce a large volume of waste and high greenhouse gas emissions, often taking advantage of cheap labor in developing countries. As a result, stakeholders are becoming more aware of the effect of the textile, apparel, and fashion industries on the climate and human rights, thus pushing businesses to mitigate their environmental damage. This paper offers a systematic literature review of sustainability trends in the TAF industries in the last 20 years. Bibliometric tools are also used to support the content analysis of the papers. The findings reveal three primary research areas in the TAF context: consumers’ behaviour towards sustainable clothing, circular economy initiatives, and sustainability challenges across the whole supply chain. As a result, this study highlights literature gaps and provides future research suggestions for each identified research cluster. In addition, drivers and barriers to implementing corporate social responsibility and circular economy practices are identified. Consequently, this study will help researchers and academicians work in this area to identify unexplored sub-fields, which reflect some potential investigation areas for expanding scientific literature on the topic. Finally, this study supports practitioners and managers in exploring the main research themes addressed in the scientific field, providing knowledge to improve and align business models with current sustainability trends.

Introduction

The production and consumption of clothes have consistently increased over the past few decades due to rapid population growth, increasing global incomes, and higher living standards (Shirvanimoghaddam et al., 2020 ). Rather than evaluating how design and production can incorporate consumer desires and sustainability, clothes are engineered and manufactured for rapid trend turnovers via obsolescence and early disposal, allowing for fast income (Kozlowski et al., 2018 ). This type of business model makes textile, apparel, and fashion (TAF) industries among the most polluting in the world (Grazzini et al., 2021 ), generating a huge volume of clothing waste (Chan et al., 2020 ). Indeed, less than 1% of all textiles are recycled back into clothes, 25% of textile waste is reused or recycled, and 75% of textile trash is disposed of in landfills globally (Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2017 ). In terms of water consumption, the fashion industry ranks second globally (Paździor et al., 2017 ). In addition, the natural ecosystem suffers greatly from the dispersion into the environment of coloured effluents and microplastics, which occurs mainly in the clothing production and disposal stages (Liu et al., 2021 ; Sadeghi-Kiakhani et al., 2021 ). The COVID-19 pandemic has increased this phenomenon: the management of recently emerging wastes, often known as "COVID wastes," including cloth facemasks, is causing growing concern due to the release of microplastics into the environment (Shirvanimoghaddam et al., 2022 ). A potential solution to reduce the environmental consequences of cloth facemasks is using natural and biodegradable polymers for their production, such as wood-based polymers (Shirvanimoghaddam et al., 2022 ). In addition, textile waste can be repurposed for different applications. For instance, they can be used as a renewable source to produce thermal energy (Nunes et al., 2018 ). Pyrolysis is a desirable substitute for incineration in the treatment of textile waste to increase the economic benefits (Yousef et al., 2019 ). In addition, cotton waste can be a perfect material for creating high-performance catalysts and removing pollutants from the environment due to its natural state and affordability (Fakhrhoseini et al., 2020 ; Shirvanimoghaddam et al., 2019 ). Finally, different reusing and recycling methods for managing textile waste can be employed, such as anaerobic digestion, fermentation, composting, and fibre regeneration (Juanga-Labayen et al., 2022 ).

Furthermore, TAF industries account for eight to ten percentage of global greenhouse gas emissions (Shrivastava et al., 2021 ), recognised as the leading cause of global warming, those effects in nature create floods, droughts, hurricanes, and sea-level rise, which are becoming more common in daily life (Mishra et al., 2021 ). As a result, governments and institutions led to the Paris Agreement on climate change in December 2015, where 195 countries have committed to keeping the temperature rise below 2 °C (Doukas et al., 2018 ). Furthermore, fashion companies often entrust the transformation process of raw materials into finished clothing to developing countries, significantly affecting their social sustainability (Chan et al., 2020 ). Consequently, in addition to issues concerning carbon emissions, water consumption, and waste disposal, another major problem of the fashion industry is the overuse of employees working in outsourced production units in countries with unsafe work environments and lower labour costs (Shrivastava et al., 2021 ). According to the triple bottom line (TBL) framework, which was coined by Elkington, ( 1998 ), the performance of an apparel company should be thus measured taking into account three dimensions: economic, environmental, and social. Further, these three dimensions should be balanced, rather than just seeing economic factors as a means for society (Weisenfeld & Hauerwaas, 2018 ). However, in long and fragmented supply chains like apparel, harmonising these three dimensions entails difficult commitment and cooperation from different actors (Bubicz et al., 2021 ; Freise & Seuring, 2015 ; Huq et al., 2016 ). The longer and more complex the chain becomes, the less contact there is between the different stakeholders, and monitoring of compliance with codes of behaviour becomes more complex (Bubicz et al., 2021 ; Egels-Zandén et al., 2015 ; Macchion et al., 2015 ; Sardar et al., 2016 ; Taylor, 2011 ; Wilhelm et al., 2016 ). Government regulatory pressures are continuously coercing businesses to implement substantial changes at the technological, material, organisational, economic, and socio-cultural levels (Kivimaa et al., 2019 ). Further, in 2015, United Nations launched the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), characterised by 17 global goals and 169 targets, which aim to encourage all countries to prioritise environmental sustainability, social inclusion, and economic development (United Nations, 2015 ). These goals demonstrate the severity and scope of today's sustainability issues (Sauermann et al., 2020 ). Therefore, in order to achieve the SDGs, fashion companies must improve their corporate social responsibility (CSR) commitment in diverse areas, promoting more sustainable production and consumption models (SDG12), reducing water consumption (SDG6), and ensuring decent working conditions (SDG8).

As a result of these concerns and due to the growing interest in the United Nations SDGs, in recent years TAF industries are more prone to pay attention to sustainability issues (Islam et al., 2020 ; Kabir et al., 2019 ). TAF industries have been establishing initiatives considering eco-efficiency concepts and aspiring to implement environmental practices, including sustainability reporting activities (Muñoz-Torres et al., 2021 ), which generate, in turn, cost savings (Lucato et al., 2017 ). Improving resource efficiency by extending the useful life of products or services is one way to promote sustainable development through a more circular economy (Rainville, 2021 ). In this context, the product-as-a-service model, or rental model, is often associated with a number of advantages, including a decrease in the environmental impact, an improvement in competitiveness, and an increase in user value (Monticelli & Costamagna, 2022 ). Further, companies operating in TAF industries are looking for creative and innovative ways to keep their carbon emissions low and minimise waste (Kozlowski et al., 2018 ), an example is the use of biodegradable and recycled raw materials (Wang et al., 2019 ). Likewise, consumers are now becoming more aware of the ethical issues of the goods they purchase, and as a result, they are changing their shopping habits (De Angelis et al., 2017 ; Gershoff & Frels, 2015 ; Grazzini et al., 2021 ), thus pushing fashion industry to become eco-friendly.

Given the increasing attention on the topic, different researchers conducted literature reviews on sustainability in the fashion industry from diverse points of view. Notably, Koeksal et al. ( 2017 ) focused on social aspects in textile/apparel sustainable supply chain management (SSCM). Paras and Pal ( 2018 ) reviewed the literature to establish and suggest a theoretical framework for a reuse-based clothing value chain. Koszewska ( 2018 ) identified the textile sector's challenges in adapting to the circular economy (CE) model. Dordevic et al. ( 2019 ) reviewed different CSR theories and methods used in the textile/apparel industry. Wagner and Heinzel ( 2020 ) analysed the literature on CE in the fashion industry, focusing on consumer behaviours concerning the sustainable purchase, usage, consumption, and disposal. Islam et al. ( 2020 ) summarised the primary environmentally friendly practices adopted by TAF industries. Jia et al. ( 2020 ) identified drivers, barriers, strategies, and performance measures for the CE in the fashion industry. Finally, Ki et al. ( 2021 ) reviewed the literature to provide a theoretical framework that offers a detailed explanation of how fashion companies can achieve circularity by involving external stakeholders in their activities.

Based on the above premises, in the scientific literature, there is a lack of literature reviews that offers a holistic understanding of sustainability issues in the TAF industries and evaluates research advances and trends on the topic to benefit multiple stakeholders. This paper aims to overcome these research gaps with a comprehensive overview of sustainability trends in the TAF manufacturing context. In addition, this research highlights both CSR and CE principles, supporting academicians, policymakers, practitioners, and other decision-makers in exploring the main research themes addressed in the scientific field. This paper is expected to contribute to the literature in the following ways. First, this study addresses the research gaps by offering a holistic perspective of a study area that is rapidly expanding. Second, this research combines the review process with bibliometric techniques. Although the growing interest in the research field, these approaches have not yet been adopted to explore sustainability progress in the TAF industries. Third, drivers and barriers to implementing CSR and CE practices are identified. Notably, CE is a production and consumption model that aims to extend products’ useful lives by helping to minimise waste, while CSR is often described as corporate practices that address economic, social, and environmental issues to benefit citizens, communities, and societies. The proposed taxonomy could be a reference point for further empirical studies. Finally, this article develops a conceptual model based on the extracted research clusters that integrate previous research findings, highlight research gaps, and offers guidance and potential avenues for further research to fill in the literature gaps.

After this introduction, Sect.  2 describes the review methodology adopted. Section  3 shows the data collection and selection phase. Sections  4 and Sect.  5 highlight descriptive and content analysis of the articles. Section  6 reports research discussions and provides a detailed research agenda. Finally, Sect.  7 presents conclusions and implications, highlighting theoretical and managerial contributions, as well as the research policy implication.

Review methodology

This study presents a systematic literature review adapted by Greenhalgh ( 1997 ), Cerchione and Esposito ( 2016 ), and Centobelli et al. ( 2017 ). Therefore, according to these contributions, we structured the literature review into two primary phases:

  • Data collection and selection: this phase includes identifying keywords and the search string, choosing the academic database (e.g. Scopus and Web of Science) to retrieve documents, and defining the inclusion/exclusion criteria to obtain papers focused on the research topic examined
  • Descriptive and content analysis phase: this phase includes conducting descriptive statistics (e.g. papers over time and articles by methodology) and an in-depth content analysis of the selected papers, aiming at identifying research gaps and providing a research agenda for further investigation.

Furthermore, we applied bibliometric methods to support the content analysis phase (van der Have & Rubalcaba, 2016 ). Notably, bibliometric techniques represent powerful tools to analyse scientific literature in a specific research field quantitatively (Ji et al., 2018 ; Zhi & Ji, 2012 ). One of the primary bibliometric methods is science mapping (Dzikowski, 2018 ) and it was used to discover the research field structure of a given topic (Cancino et al., 2017 ; Merigó et al., 2017 ; Shashi et al., 2021 ). This analysis can be implemented through numerous computer software. In this paper, we used VOSviewer software to build and visualise co-occurrence networks of keywords and paper terms, showing the main topics studied and suggestions for future research (Liboni et al., 2019 ). In particular, the co-occurrence analysis of keywords is an effective method for identifying research themes since it helps analyse the paper's content and assess the co-occurrence relationship between different concepts (Shashi et al., 2020a , 2020b ). Furthermore, the co-occurrence network of abstract terms is used to show research clusters based on recurrent terms that appear together (Liboni et al., 2019 ). According to van der Have and Rubalcaba ( 2016 ), the higher the frequency that keywords and paper terms co-occur, the stronger they are linked because they belong to a similar research sub-area. Thus, we aim to overcome this lack by offering a comprehensive literature review. Figure  1 synthesises the steps of the proposed literature review methodology.

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Literature review methodology

Data collection and selection

The sample of articles was retrieved from the ISI Web of Science (WoS) database. More specifically, the WoS Core Collection was used in this study. Due to the high quality and extensive background coverage, the WoS database has traditionally been used as the primary source for literature reviews (Alon et al., 2018 ; Bahoo et al., 2020 ; Cao & Alon, 2020 ). Moreover, WoS is considered a leading data source compared to other scholarly research databases (e.g. Scopus and Google Scholar) since it only contains selective journals (Shashi et al., 2020b ). More precisely, WoS includes over 15,000 high-quality journals and 50,000,000 papers, organised into 251 categories and 150 research topics (Gaviria-Marin et al., 2019 ; Shashi et al., 2020a ).

After a brainstorming process among five researchers, a list of keywords was identified to carry out a systematic search and find articles regarding the issue of sustainability in the TAF industries. Further, the list of keywords was refined from time to time by including the keywords of the papers found previously. Finally, the following search string was used:

("textile industr*" OR "textile sector*" OR “clothing” OR “clothes” OR “garment” OR “fashion” OR “apparel”) AND (“green” OR "environmental performance" OR "financial performance" OR "social performance" OR “green” OR "economic* performance" OR "environmental benefit*" OR "financial benefit*" OR "economic* benefit*" OR "social benefit*" OR "ethical" OR "SDG*" OR "sustainable development" OR "corporate social responsibility" OR "triple bottom line" OR "environment-friendly" OR "eco-friendly" OR "circular economy" OR “reuse” OR "re-use" OR “recycling” OR "life cycle assessment" OR "life cycle analysis" OR “LCA” OR (“sustainab*”)) AND (“environment*” OR “economic*” OR “social”). We retrieved only documents that contain those terms in the title to circumscribe the research and identify only relevant outputs on the topic investigated.

To perform bibliometric analyses, we downloaded the full record and cited references of scholarly articles in the Web of Science Core Collection (Kern et al., 2019 ). The sample of 563 documents was retrieved in October 2022. We used different filters to refine our analysis. First, we chose to not consider papers published before 2000 due to the actuality of the topic (Desore & Narula, 2018 ) and we aim to conduct a review of the last two decades. Second, we collected only papers written in the English language (Shashi et al., 2020a , 2020b ). Subsequently, to ensure the sources’ quality, we decided to select only articles and reviews published in peer-reviewed journals, thus excluding other types of sources such as conference proceedings and book series (Shashi et al., 2020b ). As a result, 406 papers were collected.

Furthermore, according to the method suggested by Pittaway et al. ( 2004 ), we carefully checked the abstracts of all the selected papers so that only those studies whose abstracts focus on sustainability in the TAF industries were selected. To avoid subjective decisions, two researchers read the abstracts of the articles in parallel, with the intervention of a third researcher in case of uncertainty (Cerchione & Esposito, 2016 ). Thus, as also displayed in Table ​ Table1, 1 , the papers were divided into the following two lists: list A includes documents whose abstract focuses on sustainability in the TAF industries and list B includes documents whose abstract focuses on technical and context-specific aspects of sustainability (e.g. processing, atmospheric emissions due to production waste, the chemistry of eco-sustainable fabrics)

Articles’ selection based on abstract

The articles contained in list B (213) were excluded as beyond the scope of the research. The full text of the 193 articles included in list A were thoroughly examined and subjected to the last exclusion criterion. Also, in this case, two researchers read the papers in parallel, plus a third one in case of doubt (Cerchione & Esposito, 2016 ). In this step, we excluded 32 documents not related to the research topic. To identify the remaining potentially important studies in our set, we used the 'snowball' strategy as an inclusion criterion (Greenhalgh & Peacock, 2005 ). We included 17 additional publications, and the final sample thus consists of 178 papers.

Descriptive analysis

The purpose of the descriptive analysis is to provide a general view of the papers on sustainability in the TAF industries. For the evaluation of the 178 papers selected, four viewpoints were identified: 1) distribution of papers over time; 2) distribution of papers across journals; 3) distribution of papers by methodology; and 4) distribution of papers by country.

Distribution of papers over time

Figure  2 shows the distribution of the selected papers published between 2000 and 2022. The number of papers written has grown exponentially, reaching a maximum of 38 in 2021. The data collection was conducted in October 2022. According to this analysis, in the last five years, research on sustainability in TAF industries has grown significantly. Indeed, approximately 85% of the papers examined were written between 2017 and October-2022.

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Papers over time

Distribution of papers across journals

The journals that published at least three papers on sustainability in the TAF industries from 2000 to October 2022 are classified in Fig.  3 . The top journals publishing on the research topic have a broader scope and belong to different areas, confirming that the analysis of sustainability issues in the TAF industries have grown over the years in a broader range. In particular, Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management (14), followed by Journal of Cleaner Production (9), International Journal of Consumer Studies (7), Journal of Business Research (6), and Corporate Social Responsibility and Environmental Management (6), Journal of Business Ethics (3), Business Strategy and the Environment (3), and Asia Pacific Journal of Marketing and Logistics (3). According to the SCImago Journal Rank (SJR) updated to the year 2020, used to determine each journal's scientific importance, all of the journals displayed in Fig.  3 are in the first quartile (Q1), except for Asia Pacific Journal of Marketing and Logistics and International Journal of Consumer Studies , which are in the second quartile (Q2).

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Papers published per journal

Distribution of papers by methodology

The distribution of papers by methodology represented in Fig.  4 shows that about 50% of the studies are based on quantitative approaches (e.g. surveys and mathematical models), while 23% of the papers use qualitative approaches (e.g. single and multiple case studies). A few other papers use conceptual approaches, literature review approaches, and mixed approaches (combining qualitative and quantitative methods).

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Papers by methodology

Distribution of papers by country

This analysis highlights the most productive countries in the research field investigated. Notably, certain papers were co-authored by researchers from different countries, while authors from the same nationality co-authored others. The country of each researcher who co-authored the article is counted in the first situation. On the contrary, the country is only counted once, even if two or more researchers from the same country co-authored the paper. As shown in Fig.  5 , USA is at the top of the ranking with 35 publications, followed by the UK (26), and China (25).

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Papers by country

Content analysis

Keywords analysis.

This analysis found 833 different keywords in the sample of 178 papers. The research focused on keywords that had at least eight repetitions (Liboni et al., 2019 ). Consequently, a total of 25 unique keywords were chosen (Fig.  6 ). In particular, the keyword “sustainability” emerged as the most recurrent with 45 repetitions, followed by “consumption” (26), “circular economy” (24), “fashion” (23), and “corporate social responsibility” (20).

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Co-occurrence analysis of keywords

“Appendix 1 " highlights the 20 most cited keywords and their total link strength. The most frequent keywords offer an in-depth understanding of the critical topics investigated. Furthermore, the keyword sustainability is strongly linked with the others, and its relationship with "fast fashion", "supply chain", and "consumption" highlights that scientific literature in the TAF domain is extensively focused on studying more sustainable business models which can reduce the environmental footprint in all the phases of the supply chain. The term “fast fashion” refers to a business model defined by constant shift, innovation, affordability, and disposable patterns concerning low-cost apparel products that replicate existing luxury fashion trends (Joy et al., 2012 ). Diverse scientific studies have confirmed that fast fashion's disposal nature leads to serious environmental, health, social, and economic issues (Shirvanimoghaddam et al., 2020 ). As a result, various alternative business models have been developed. For instance, the clothing product-service system (PSS) recognises various sustainability targets as an alternative to the effects of consumption and fast fashion (Johnson & Plepys, 2021 ). This business model is based on rental rather than purchase, allowing to extend the useful life of a garment and reduce waste. Thus, PSS shifts the emphasis to complementary service offerings, which dematerialises and decouples consumer loyalty from material use (Adam et al., 2017 ). Another primary problem for fashion companies' is the supply chain length and complexity, causing coordination and sustainability concerns. According to Carlson and Bitsch ( 2018 ), a sustainable supply chain is a crucial element for industry, government, and civil society. Recent research highlights that fashion retailers often engage procurement intermediaries to handle their international sourcing with suppliers from manufacturers operating in developing countries, improving coordination and transparency (Koeksal et al., 2018 ).

Cluster analysis based on abstract terms

In our sample of articles, the co-occurrence analysis of abstract terms has shown 3657 different recurrent words. However, we selected only terms with at least nine repetitions and just 27 terms resulted in the analysis (Liboni et al., 2019 ). Figure  7 displays its network visualisation. “Appendix 2 ” highlights the 20 most recurrent abstract terms and their relevance score. Using VOSviewer, we divided the abstract terms into three different research clusters:

  • Cluster 1: consumer behaviour concerning sustainable clothing consumption
  • Cluster 2: circular economy and corporate social responsibility issues in the TAF industries
  • Cluster 3: impact of sustainability initiatives on corporate performance.

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Co-occurrence network of abstract terms

Consumer behaviour concerning sustainable clothing consumption

This cluster is focused on sustainable clothing consumption through the lens of consumer behaviour. The consumer's vision of eco-sustainable clothing is a central theme in the literature on TAF industries. The previously reserved attention for an elite audience is now directed to an increasingly widespread profile of evolved consumers who are more interested in the origin of what they buy and the traceability of the supply chain. Therefore, the customer plays a crucial role in the sustainable context, so it is vital to understand his point of view towards eco-sustainable, recycled, or used products. The majority of contributions included in this cluster are surveys, in which the relationship between the constructs was tested chiefly through structural equation modelling (SEM). In light of the theory of planned behaviour, most of these studies investigate the factors influencing sustainable apparel purchase intention (e.g. Dhir et al., 2021 ; Hwang et al., 2020 ; Kang et al., 2013 ; Karaosman et al., 2015 ; Nguyen et al., 2019 ; Sobuj et al., 2021 ; Zhao et al., 2019 ), revealing that sustainable clothing buying is positively correlated with different antecedents, such as green confidence, environmental awareness, social media usage, environmental attitude, labelling satisfaction, subjective norms, and perceived behavioural regulation. Other studies focused specifically on the young generations. For example, Varshneya et al. ( 2017 ) surveyed young consumers to explore how green consumption principles and social influence affect buying organic clothing. In particular, using a multinominal logit model, Rothenberg and Matthews ( 2017 ) determined the primary factors influencing young consumers to buy eco-friendly t-shirts. The findings suggest that consumers prioritised price, followed by the location of production, and finally, sustainability issues. Other studies analysed the existing attitude-behaviour gap and examined consumers' barriers to buying green clothing (Jacobs et al., 2018 ; Wiederhold & Martinez, 2018 ). Finally, Byrd and Su ( 2020 ) surveyed 399 US consumers to discover how they feel about apparel brands and how they behave when it comes to environmentally friendly, affordable, and socially conscious clothing. Further research focused on the motivations for using sharing economy platforms (Lee & Huang, 2020 ; Ek Styvén and Mariani, 2020 ), indicating that consumers' intentions to use online fashion rental services were positively affected by different factors, such as behaviours, subjective norms, perceived environmental sustainability, economic motivation, and distance from the consumption system. On another note, Silva et al. ( 2021 ) revealed that social shame and consumers' lack of knowledge about available outlets are the factors that most negatively affect the purchasing of second-hand clothing.

Moreover, many studies examined recycled and reused products from various perspectives. Some researchers investigated how consumers handle their apparel waste, including reselling, swapping, taking back, and donating (Lai & Chang, 2020 ; Weber et al., 2020 ), highlighting that environmental principles and prosocial attitudes affected customers' decisions to donate clothes. Other studies surveyed random samples to investigate consumer recycling and reusing apparel behaviour (Paco et al., 2021 ; Zurga et al., 2015 ). Further, Park and Lin ( 2020 ) examined the discrepancy between purchasing purpose and purchase experience in recycled and upcycled fashion items. Other studies focused on behaviour intentions for the consumption of reused clothing, recycled clothes, and upcycled garments (Chaturvedi et al., 2020 ; Kim et al., 2021 ). Notably, Meng and Leary ( 2021 ) explored consumer perception concerning the transformation of recycled bottles into new clothes. Consumers perceive this practice negatively for hygienic reasons, reducing purchasing intent. Finally, Cruz-Cardenas et al. ( 2019 ) conducted a multiple case study based on 20 thorough interviews followed by a survey of 425 consumers to investigate the factors affecting clothing reuse, highlighting different antecedents, such as income and altruism.

Circular economy and corporate social responsibility issues in the TAF industries

This cluster concerns CE and CSR issues in the TAF industries. Unlike the previous one, this cluster includes many explorative studies since the CE and CSR implementation is still in its early stages, necessitating a more detailed understanding based on qualitative analysis (Colucci & Vecchi, 2021 ). In particular, the CE principles significantly improve sustainability in the way textile products are fabricated, consumed and disposed of (Staicu & Pop, 2018 ). Different frameworks have been developed to help fashion companies transition from a linear to a CE model (e.g. Mishra et al., 2021 ). Indeed, several critical factors need to be explored for developing a circular product in the textile industry context, such as sustainable product design and reverse logistics (Franco, 2017 ). Concepts such as repairability, recyclability, longevity, and reuse and disposal of products are much debated in the literature. Although they are still at the early stages, different methods for reusing, recycling, and regenerating textile waste as well as various technological innovations and plans for a circular textile economy have been developed (Shirvanimoghaddam et al., 2020 ). In this regard, Moazzem et al. ( 2021 ) used the life cycle assessment (LCA) methodology to evaluate environmental benefits due to different textile waste recycling opportunities. The findings show that cleaning wipes recycling has the most significant impact benefits, followed by cotton fibre, insulation material, and polyester raw material recycling. Sandvik and Stubbs ( 2019 ) conducted a multiple case study based on semi-structured interviews to determine drivers and barriers to implementing a textile-to-textile recycling technology in the Scandinavian fashion industry. Restricted technology (which makes separating materials difficult), high research and development costs, and the supply chain complexity (which includes many stakeholders involved in the manufacture), represent the key barriers. Simultaneously, the design and use of new fabrics and increased apparel collection and collaboration are the main drivers.

Furthermore, many studies used a case study approach to investigate the challenges and solutions that fashion brands face while developing and testing CE strategies within their current business models (Kant Hvass & Pedersen, 2019 ; Colucci & Vecchi, 2021 ). The findings show that fashion companies face several obstacles in implementing circular business models in their organisations, including divergent perspectives of value and undefined performance metrics, weak alignment with the current strategy, a lack of internal skills and competencies, and a lack of customer interest. Further, Paras et al. ( 2018 ) conducted a multiple case study based on semi-structured interviews with Swedish companies to explore the reuse-based clothing value chain drivers. The results suggest that the main drivers are corporate factors (system, legislation, and awareness), product features (design, quality and price), and consumer attitude (donor and purchaser).

Other studies focused on the slow fashion movement. According to Onur ( 2020 ), the slow fashion movement believes that the fashion industry should not continue operating in the same way it has in the past, putting the world’s finite resources at risk. As a result, the author offered a detailed account of creating new learning methods and designing via upcycling, craft, and collaboration in developing countries. For instance, Friedrich ( 2021 ) investigated the potential of applying biobased products in the textile industry, making the economy more sustainable and lowering the dependence on synthetic materials. Tama et al. ( 2017 ) surveyed Turkish university students to investigate clothing awareness and attitudes regarding environmental sustainability and slow fashion, and the findings highlighted a lack of knowledge about the slow fashion paradigm.

Moreover, some of the studies analysed circular business models based on clothing swapping, PSSs, and collaborative fashion consumption (CFC). Notably, clothing swapping is an example of a circular solution that allows extending the useful life of a product (Camacho-Otero et al., 2020 ), while the CFC is an economic model focused on clothing sharing, second-hand purchases, and renting or leasing (Zamani et al., 2018 ). Compared to a traditional ownership-based consumption model, the CFC offers environmental benefits due to the extension of the clothes’ useful life. On another note, Bech et al. ( 2019 ) used the LCA approach to assess and compare a PSS business model’s environmental impact on t-shirts and a reference business model.

Furthermore, different studies used the multiple case study design to examine CSR strategies’ drivers and barriers (Govindasamy & Suresh, 2018 ; Guedes et al., 2017 ; Koeksal & Straehle, 2021 ; Van & Nguyen, 2019 ), showing that the main drivers are the competitive context, the social influences, the managers’ knowledge of CSR, the company’s internal culture, as well as market promotion and building a reputation with stakeholders and the government. Additionally, the most significant obstacles were a lack of resources in expertise, information, finance, and training, as well as the cost of CSR initiatives and internal and external communication. Further obstacles were the complexity of the green process and system design, as well as the lack of regulatory support (Majumdar & Sinha, 2018 ).

Impact of sustainability initiatives on corporate performance

The studies of this cluster investigated how different sustainable initiatives affect corporate performance (Chan et al., 2020 ; Saha et al., 2021 ; Sudusinghe & Seuring, 2020 ; Wong & Ngai, 2021 ; Yang & Jang, 2020 ). In particular, Ali et al. ( 2020 ) revealed that fashion companies that successfully implemented ISO 14001 environmental management system (EMS) reported substantial efficiency improvements compared to companies that have not yet EMS.

Specifically, some studies focused on the sustainable supply chain, which is achieved when the objectives are shared by all the actors involved. This entails reconsidering production flows, operations, and materials, limiting the polluting effects that flow into the environment, limiting production waste, extending the life cycle of the products, and improving social conditions. Kumar et al. ( 2020 ) used the Delphi-based fuzzy Analytical Hierarchy Process approach to identify long-term factors for implementing social responsibility-based sourcing in the ready-made apparel supply chain in Bangladesh. Further, Ashby ( 2018 ) used an in-depth case study to explore how a closed-loop supply chain (CLSC) can improve the environmental performance of a UK clothing company. The results highlight the crucial role of strategic resources and a shared vision and culture among the company and its suppliers, from a more reactive environmental damage prevention plan to a comprehensive CLSC. Jesus Munoz-Torres et al. ( 2021 ) used the LCA method to quantify textile companies’ environmental impact throughout the supply chain and compare their performance with global and sectorial sustainability challenges. The findings reveal a connection between global environmental issues and corporate environmental disclosure.

Taxonomy of CE and CSR drivers and barriers

Based on the previous literature, Table ​ Table2 2 highlights the main factors which potentially affect the propensity of fashion companies to adopt CE and CSR principles, as well as the main barriers hindering their implementation. The proposed taxonomy might serve as a starting point for more empirical research.

CE and CSR drivers and barriers

Discussions and future research directions

The descriptive analysis provided a general overview of the articles included in the literature review, highlighting that, in recent years, there is growing attention on sustainability in the TAF industries and that these topics present different scopes, belong to different disciplines, and are covered by different journals.

The content analysis of the selected articles highlighted the literature’s strengths and weaknesses, thus identifying current research and providing research ideas for future investigation. It is possible to classify the selected papers into five main research areas: 1) consumer behaviour; 2) circular economy; 3) corporate social responsibility; 4) business models; and 5) supply chain management. Table ​ Table3 3 offers a more in-depth discussion of existing research and future research suggestions for each of these scientific areas.

Current research and future research suggestions

The first research area discusses the drivers influencing sustainable apparel purchasing (e.g. labelling satisfaction and environmental awareness), clothing reuse (e.g. income and altruism), as well as different clothing disposal behaviour (e.g. donation and recycling). Firstly, future research could perform a meta-analysis to generalise the empirical results of previous quantitative investigations on sustainable clothing consumer behaviour, thereby obtaining more robust conclusions than those drawn from each study. Further, as the production activities, business processes and materials contribute to an increase in the global pollution rate, eco-design features, ecological materials, processes with low environmental impact, and waste reduction have been developed in recent years (Heinze, 2020 ). This area shows the need for a more in-depth analysis of the eco-design characteristics that positively influence the ethical clothing consumer’s purchase intentions. Further, there is also a lack of studies investigating the efficiency and effectiveness of the communication tools adopted by TAF companies to encourage consumers to purchase sustainable clothing. For instance, compared to traditional channels, such as reports and advertising campaigns, corporate websites are constantly being used to present the business’ formalised and official viewpoint on CSR activities (Mann et al., 2014 ). The consumers’ opinion on this aspect could therefore be more in-depth analysed in further investigation.

The second research area focuses on drivers and barriers to adopting CE strategies in the TAF industries. In the TAF industries, due to the variety of fabrics and clothing accessories used, such as buttons and zips, end-of-life textiles are difficult to handle after disposal (Marques et al., 2020 ). Since there are presently few technologies available for separating recyclable textile waste from non-recyclable textile waste, employees still do much of the job by hand (Centobelli et al., 2022 ). Future studies could therefore design and develop new technological advances for managing and sorting textile waste. Automating the process and launching it on an industrial scale will therefore be the key to a real revolution in the world of fabrics.

Furthermore, many of the articles we analysed use the LCA methodology to evaluate companies’ environmental impact throughout the supply chain. However, there is a lack of studies examining the environmental and economic impact of different sustainable and circular clothing using the LCA and Life Cycle Costing (LCC) methodologies. Indeed, the integration of these methods will provide a holistic understanding of sustainable clothing production, allowing companies to choose materials that guarantee greater added value and which at the same time respect the environment.

The third research area is mainly focused on CSR drivers and barriers. Organisations require greater attention to social and environmental issues to develop a successful business. As a result, companies are changing their modus operandi, developing sustainable initiatives from a social and environmental point of view. According to Zhu et al., ( 2016 ), businesses are under pressure from stakeholders to reduce the negative environmental impact they generate while increasing CSR initiatives. Companies recognise the strategic importance of reacting to stakeholder concerns as a means of strengthening their competitive position (Zhu et al., 2016 ). Consequently, future studies on the analysis of stakeholder concerns in the context of TAF industries are needed to develop a holistic corporate sustainability strategy.

The fourth research area discusses different types of business models in the field of TAF industries. A vast majority discusses the PSSs and the fast fashion model. However, this area highlights the need for a more comprehensive analysis of the slow fashion business model. Slow fashion is based on various principles, such as the quality of the products, the recycled and eco-compatible materials, and the short supply chain (Jung & Jin, 2016 ). Consequently, this type of business requires greater awareness of consumers and manufacturers, as it tends to reduce the production cycle and consequently consumption. Slow fashion is aimed at safeguarding the climate, workers, natural resources, and the economy. However, due to the higher costs of slow fashion products compared to mass-produced clothes, the potential of slow fashion to make and maintain a profit represents a critical point that should be explored better. It is necessary to investigate the external pressures affecting the development of the slow fashion business model, also considering all the issues related to the transition to this new type of business model. Further, there is a lack of studies examining the circular business model innovations in the TAF industries (Henry et al., 2020 ). More in detail, according to the taxonomy proposed by Urbinati et al., ( 2017 ), three types of circular companies can be identified: downstream, upstream, and full circular companies. Downstream circular businesses follow a pricing scheme or a marketing strategy focused on product use and re-use, but these contributions neglect the necessary changes at the supplier level or internal processes or product design. On another note, upstream circular companies are described as those that implement circular solutions internally (e.g. using recycled raw materials) and focus on the interactions with their suppliers. Finally, full circular companies implement both downstream and upstream circular business model innovations. As a result, future studies could examine the degree of circularity of the TAF companies, analysing if circular business model innovations are implemented downstream, upstream, or both.

Finally, the fifth research area mainly focuses on the analysis of different social and environmental sustainability challenges along the fashion supply chain. From this research area emerged the need to explore the role of digital technologies in improving sustainability performance. Indeed, digital enabling technologies like blockchain can guarantee the complete traceability and transparency of products, thus optimising the entire supply chain and improving company performance (Centobelli et al., 2021 ). Consequently, these technologies could be an excellent resource for TAF companies, representing a strategic tool for environmental protection and sustainable development and facilitating the spread of sustainable practices.

Conclusions and implications

Contribution to the theory.

This paper offers a comprehensive analysis of sustainability trends in the TAF industries, providing different theoretical contributions and extending the results provided by previous research. We adopted bibliometric techniques (i.e. co-occurrence analysis of keywords and abstract terms) to support the content analysis phase of the review methodology and provide quantitative insights offering a holistic understanding of the research field, integrating CSR and CE aspects. Notably, the co-occurrence network of abstract terms revealed three main research clusters: (1) consumer behaviour concerning sustainable clothing consumption, (2) circular economy and corporate social responsibility issues in the TAF industries, and (3) sustainability challenges in the fashion industry. By thoroughly analysing these clusters, we developed a conceptual framework which integrates prior study findings, identifies research gaps, and provides potential directions for future research. Consequently, this study will help researchers and academicians work in this research area to identify unexplored sub-fields, which reflect some potential investigation areas for expanding scientific literature on the topic. Moreover, the proposed taxonomy of CE and CSR drivers and barriers in the fashion industry context could be used by researchers in future investigations as a reference point for conducting empirical studies.

Contribution to practice

This study offers different opportunities to the public authorities, businesses, and practitioners involved in the path towards sustainability in the TAF context. It provides a broad range of relevant knowledge regarding how sustainability and circularity principles are affecting TAF industries. Such knowledge is essential for managers of TAF industries since it allows them to innovate their business models and prosper in today's competitive environment, thus moving to less polluting production systems and improving company performance. Manufacturing companies, purchasing organisations, and other stakeholders could gain a deeper understanding of the problems, procedures, predictors, barriers, and challenges associated with implementing sustainable practices and developing the skills necessary to reduce environmental impacts and gain competitive advantages.

Furthermore, this study may have political implications. It is acknowledged that the TAF industries represent a major source of environmental pollution. Therefore, the results of this study may inspire governments to promote sustainable initiatives in the TAF industries. For instance, policies implemented by the governments may include incentives for using eco-sustainable and recycled materials or financing for the purchase of green technologies with a lower environmental impact. In addition, for TAF industries to achieve the SDGs, the government must promote cultural changes that move innovation from an individualistic logic bound only to profit maximisation to a collectivistic, communal and open logic based on sustainable development principles.

Limitations of the study

Although considerable attention was taken to ensure the study process's validity and outcomes, certain limitations must be acknowledged. First, despite we adopted a validation criterion to integrate papers published in different academic databases, we limited our initial search to papers published in the WoS database. Furthermore, we just looked at papers and reviews published in peer-reviewed journals, ignoring other types of publications, including conference proceedings and book chapters. Second, we used VOSviewer software to conduct the co-occurrence analysis of keywords and paper terms, but other statistical analysis and clustering methods can be used, such as coauthorship analysis. Another limitation is regarding the related concept (i.e. zero waste), which is not incorporated within the scope of this research. Further studies can expand the scope to such related concepts/theories.

Acknowledgements

This research did not receive any specific grant from funding agencies in the public, commercial, or not-for-profit sectors.

Appendix 1. Frequently used keywords

Appendix 2. recurrent abstract terms, author contributions.

All authors contributed equally to this article.

Open access funding provided by Università Parthenope di Napoli within the CRUI-CARE Agreement. The authors did not receive support from any organisation for the submitted work.

Data availability

Declarations.

The authors have no competing interests to declare that are relevant to the content of this article.

Publisher's Note

Springer Nature remains neutral with regard to jurisdictional claims in published maps and institutional affiliations.

Contributor Information

Stefano Abbate, Email: [email protected] .

Piera Centobelli, Email: [email protected] .

Roberto Cerchione, Email: [email protected] .

Simon Peter Nadeem, Email: [email protected] .

Emanuela Riccio, Email: [email protected] .

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News from the Columbia Climate School

Why Fashion Needs to Be More Sustainable

fashion industry issues research topics

The pandemic slowed fast fashion to a standstill. Now as the world opens up and we are socializing and going places, we want to dress up again. But after living a confined and simpler life during COVID, this is a good time to take stock of the implications of how we dress. Fashion, and especially fast fashion, has enormous environmental impacts on our planet, as well as social ones.

Since the 2000s, fashion production has doubled and it will likely triple by 2050, according to the American Chemical Society. The production of polyester, used for much cheap fast fashion, as well as athleisure wear, has increased nine-fold in the last 50 years. Because clothing has gotten so cheap, it is easily discarded after being worn only a few times. One survey found that 20 percent of clothing in the US is never worn; in the UK, it is 50 percent. Online shopping, available day and night, has made impulse buying and returning items easier.

fashion industry issues research topics

According to McKinsey, average consumers buy 60 percent more than they did in 2000, and keep it half as long. And in 2017, it was estimated that 41 percent of young women felt the need to wear something different whenever they left the house. In response, there are companies that send consumers a box of new clothes every month.

Fashion’s environmental impacts

Fashion is responsible for 10 percent of human-caused greenhouse gas emissions and 20 percent of global wastewater, and uses more energy than the aviation and shipping sectors combined.

Impacts on water

Global fashion also consumes 93 billion metric tons of clean water each year, about half of what Americans drink annually.

Cotton is an especially thirsty crop. For example, one kilogram of cotton used to produce a pair of jeans can consume 7,500 to 10,000 liters of water—the amount a person would drink over 10 years. Cotton production also requires pesticides and insecticides, which pollute the soil; runoff from fertilized cotton fields carry the excess nutrients to water bodies, causing eutrophication and algal blooms.

The dyeing process for fabrics, which uses toxic chemicals, is responsible for 17 to 20 percent of global industrial water pollution.

fashion industry issues research topics

Seventy-two toxic chemicals have been found in the water used in textile dyeing.

Contributions to climate change

To feed the fashion industry’s need for wood pulp to make fabrics like rayon, viscose and other fabrics, 70 million tons of trees are cut down each year. That number is expected to double by 2034, speeding deforestation in some of the world’s endangered forests.

The fashion industry produces 1.2 million metric tons of CO2 each year, according to a  MacArthur Foundation study.  In 2018, it resulted in more greenhouse gas emissions than the carbon produced by France, Germany and the UK all together. Polyester, which is actually plastic made from fossil fuels, is used for about 65 percent of all clothing, and consumes 70 million barrels of oil each year. In addition, the fashion industry uses large amounts of fossil fuel-based plastic for packaging and hangers.

Less than one percent of clothing is recycled to make new clothes. The fibers in clothing are polymers, long chains of chemically linked molecules. Washing and wearing clothing shorten and weaken these polymers, so by the time a garment is discarded, the polymers are too short to turn into a strong new fabric. In addition, most of today’s textile-to-textile recycling technologies cannot separate out dyes, contaminants, or even a combination of fabrics such as polyester and cotton.

As a result, 53 million metric tons of discarded clothing are incinerated or go to landfills each year. In 2017, Burberry burned $37 million worth of unsold bags, clothes and perfume. If sent to a landfill, clothes made from natural fabrics like cotton and linen may degrade in weeks to months, but synthetic fabrics can take up to 200 years to break down. And as they do, they produce methane, a powerful global warming greenhouse gas.

Microplastic pollution

Many people have lived solely in athleisure wear during the pandemic, but the problem with this is that the stretch and breathability in most athleisure comes from the use of synthetic plastic fibers like polyester, nylon, acrylic, spandex and others, which are made of plastic.

fashion industry issues research topics

When clothes made from synthetics are washed, microplastics  from their fibers are shed into the wastewater. Some of it is filtered out at wastewater treatment plants along with human waste and the resulting sludge is used as fertilizer for agriculture. Microplastics then enter the soil and become part of the food chain. The microplastics that elude the treatment plant end up in rivers and oceans, and in the atmosphere when seawater droplets carry them into the air. It’s estimated that 35 percent of the microplastics in the ocean come from the fashion industry. While some brands use “recycled polyester” from PET bottles, which emits 50 to 25 percent fewer emissions than virgin polyester, effective polyester recycling is limited, so after use, these garments still usually end up in the landfill where they can shed microfibers.

Microplastics harm marine life, as well as birds and turtles. They have already been found in our food, water and air—one study found that Americans eat 74,000 microplastic particles each year. And while there is growing concern about this, the risks to human health are still not well understood.

Fashion’s social impacts

fashion industry issues research topics

Because it must be cheap, fast fashion is dependent on the exploited labor force in developing countries where regulations are lax. Workers are underpaid, overworked, and exposed to dangerous conditions or health hazards; many are underage.

Of the 75 million factory workers around the world, it’s estimated that only two percent earn a living wage. To keep brands from moving to another country or region with lower costs, factories limit wages and are disinclined to spend money to improve working conditions. Moreover, workers often live in areas with waterways polluted by the chemicals from textile dyeing.

How can fashion be more sustainable?

As opposed to our current linear model of fashion production with environmental impacts at every stage, where resources are consumed, turned into a product, then discarded, sustainable fashion minimizes its environmental impact, and even aims to benefit the environment. The goal is a circular fashion industry where waste and pollution are eliminated, and materials are used for as long as possible, then reused for new products to avoid the need to exploit virgin resources.

Many designers, brands, and scientists — including students in Columbia University’s Environmental Science and Policy program — are exploring ways to make fashion more sustainable and circular.

Since 80 to 90 percent of the sustainability of a clothing item is determined by decisions made during its design stage, new strategies can do away with waste from the get-go.

To eliminate the 15 percent of a fabric that usually ends up on the cutting room floor in the making of a garment, zero waste pattern cutting is used to arrange pattern pieces on fabric like a Tetris puzzle.

fashion industry issues research topics

Designer YeohLee  is known as a zero waste pioneer, employing geometric concepts in order to use every inch of fabric; she also creates garments with the leftovers of other pieces. Draping and knitting are also methods of designing without waste.

3D virtual sampling can eliminate the need for physical samples of material. A finished garment can sometimes require up to 20 samples. The Fabricant , a digital fashion house, replaces actual garments with digital samples in the design and development stage and claims this can reduce a brand’s carbon footprint by 30 percent.

Some clothing can be designed to be taken apart at the end of its life; designing for disassembly makes it easier for the parts to be recycled or upcycled into another garment. To be multifunctional, other garments are reversible, or designed so that parts can be subtracted or added. London-based brand Petit Pli makes children’s clothing from a single recycled fabric, making it easier to recycle; and the garments incorporate pleats that stretch so that kids can continue to wear them as they grow.

3D printing can be used to work out details digitally before production, minimizing trial and error; and because it can produce custom-fit garments on demand, it reduces waste. In addition, recycled materials such as plastic and metal can be 3D printed.

fashion industry issues research topics

Sustainable designer Iris Ven Herpen is known for her fabulous 3D printed creations, some using upcycled marine debris; she is also currently working with scientists to develop sustainable textiles.

DyeCoo , a Dutch company, has developed a dyeing technique that uses waste CO2 in place of water and chemicals. The technology pressurizes CO2 so that it becomes supercritical and allows dye to readily dissolve, so it can enter easily into fabrics. Since the process uses no water, it produces no wastewater, and requires no drying time because the dyed fabric comes out dry. Ninety-five percent of the CO2 is recaptured and reused, so the process is a closed-loop system.

Heuritech , a French startup, is using artificial intelligence to analyze product images from Instagram and Weibo and predict trends. Adidas, Lee, Wrangler and other brands have used it to anticipate future demand and plan their production accordingly to reduce waste.

Mobile body scanning  can help brands produce garments that fit a variety of body types instead of using standard sizes. 3D technology is also being used for virtual dressing, which will enable consumers to see how a garment looks on them before they purchase it. These innovations could lead to fewer returns of clothing.

Another way to reduce waste is to eliminate inventory. On-demand product fulfillment companies like Printful  enable designers to sync their custom designs to the company’s clothing products. Garments are not created until an order comes in.

For Days,  a closed-loop system, gives swap credits for every article of clothing you buy; customers can use swap credits to get new clothing items, all made from organic cotton or recycled materials. The swap credits encourage consumers to send in unwanted For Days clothes, keep them out of the landfill, and allow them to be made into new materials. Customers can also earn swap credits by filling one of the company’s Take Back bags with any old clothes, in any condition, and sending it in; these are then resold if salvageable or recycled as rags.

But perhaps the least wasteful strategy enables consumers not to buy any clothes at all. If they are mainly concerned about their image on social media, they can use digital clothing that is superimposed over their image. The Fabricant , which creates these digital garments,  aims to make “self expression through digital clothing a sustainable way to explore personal identity.”

Better materials

Many brands are using textiles made from natural materials such as hemp, ramie or bamboo instead of cotton. Bamboo has been touted as a sustainable fabric because it is fast-growing and doesn’t require much water or pesticides; however, some old growth forests are being cut down to make way for bamboo plantations. Moreover, to make most bamboo fabrics soft, they are subjected to chemical processing whose toxins can harm the environment and human health.

fashion industry issues research topics

Because of this processing, the Global Organic Textile Standard says that almost all bamboo fiber can “not be considered as natural or even organic fibre, even if the bamboo plant was certified organic on the field.”

Some designers are turning to organic cotton, which is grown without toxic chemicals. But because organic cotton yields are 30 percent less than conventional cotton, they need 30 percent more water and land to produce the same amount as conventional cotton. Other brands, such as North Face and Patagonia, are creating clothing made from regenerative cotton—cotton grown without pesticides, fertilizers, weed pulling or tilling, and with cover crops and diverse plants to enhance the soil.

Textiles are also being made with fibers from agriculture waste, such as leaves and rinds. Orange Fiber, an Italian company, is using nanotechnology to make a sustainable silky material by processing the cellulose of oranges. H&M is using cupro, a material made from cotton waste. Flocus makes fully biodegradable and recyclable yarns and fabrics from the fibers of kapok tree pods through a process that doesn’t harm the trees. Kapok trees can grow in poor soils without much need for water or pesticides.

In 2016, Theanne Schiros, a principal investigator at Columbia University’s Materials Research Science and Engineering Center  and assistant professor at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), mentored a group of FIT students who created a bio-design award-winning material from algae. Kelp, its main ingredient, is fast growing, absorbs CO2 and nitrogen from agricultural runoff, and helps increase biodiversity. With the help of Columbia University’s Helen Lu, a biomedical engineer, the team created a bio-yarn they called AlgiKnit . Having received over $2 million in initial seed funding, the start-up, based in Brooklyn, is scaling up for market entry.

Schiros and Lu also developed a microbial bioleather. The compostable material consists of a nanocellulose mesh made through a fermentation process using a culture of bacteria and yeast. Schiros explained that these bacteria produce cellulose nanofibers as part of their metabolism; the bacteria were used in the fermentation of kombucha as early as 220 BC in what was Manchuria and in vinegar fermentation as early as 5,000 BC in Egypt. Biofabrication of the material is 10,000 times less toxic to humans than chrome-tanned leather, with an 88 to 97 percent smaller carbon footprint than synthetic (polyurethane) leather or other plastic-based leather alternatives. The fabrication process also drew on ancient textile techniques for tanning and dyeing. Schiros worked with the designers of Public School NY  on Slow Factory’s   One x One Conscious Design Initiative  challenge to create zero-waste, naturally dyed sneakers from the material.

Schiros is also co-founder and CEO of the startup Werewool , another collaboration with Lu, and with Allie Obermeyer of Columbia University Chemical Engineering. Werewool, which was recognized by the 2020 Global Change Award, creates biodegradable textiles with color and other attributes found in nature using synthetic biology . “Nature has evolved a genetic code to make proteins that do things like have bright color, stretch, moisture management, wicking, UV protection—all the things that you really want for performance textiles, but that currently come at a really high environmental cost,” said Schiros. “But nature accomplishes all this and that’s attributed to microscopic protein structures.”

Werewool engineers proteins inspired by those found in coral, jellyfish, oysters, and cow milk that result in color, moisture management or stretch. The DNA code for those proteins is inserted into bacteria, which ferment and mass-produce the protein that then becomes the basis for a fiber. The company will eventually provide its technology and fibers to other companies throughout the supply chain and will likely begin with limited edition designer brands.

Better working conditions

There are companies now intent on improving working conditions for textile workers. Dorsu  in Cambodia creates clothing from fabric discarded by garment factories. Workers are paid a living wage, have contracts, are given breaks, and also get bonuses, overtime pay, insurance and paid leave for sickness and holidays.

fashion industry issues research topics

Mayamiko  is a 100 percent PETA-certified vegan brand that advocates for labor rights and created the Mayamiko Trust to train disadvantaged women.

Workers who make Ethcs ’ PETA-certified vegan garments are protected under the Fair Wear Foundation , which ensures a fair living wage, safe working conditions and legal labor contracts for workers. The Fair Wear Foundation website lists 128 brands it works with.

Beyond sustainability

Schiros maintains that making materials in collaboration with traditional artisans and Indigenous communities can produce results that address environmental, social and economic facets of sustainability. She led a series of natural dye workshops with women tie dyers in Kindia, Guinea, and artisans in Grand-Bassam, Côte d’Ivoire, and collaborated with New York designers to make a zero-waste collection from the fabrics created. The project   connected FIT faculty and students to over 300 artisans in West Africa to create models for inclusive, sustainable development through textile arts, education, and entrepreneurship.

Partnering with frontline communities that are protecting, for example, the Amazon rainforest, does more than simply sustain—it protects biodiversity and areas that are sequestering carbon. “So with high value products that incorporate fair trade and clear partnerships into the supply chain, you not only have natural, biodegradable materials, but you have the added bonus of all that biodiversity that those communities are protecting,” she said. “Indigenous communities are five percent of the global population, and they’re protecting 80 percent of the biodiversity in the world…Integrating how we make our materials, our systems and the communities that are sequestering carbon while protecting biodiversity is critically important.”

The need for transparency

In order to ensure fashion’s sustainability and achieve a circular fashion industry, it must be possible to track all the elements of a product from the materials used, chemicals added, production practices, and product use, to the end of life, as well as the social and environmental conditions under which it was made.

Blockchain technology can do this by recording each phase of a garment’s life in a decentralized tamper-proof common ledger. Designer Martine Jarlgaard partnered with blockchain tech company Provenance to create QR codes that, when scanned, show the garment’s whole history. The software platform Eon has also developed a way to give each garment its own digital fingerprint called Circular ID. It uses a digital identifier embedded in the clothing that enables it to be traced for its whole lifecycle.

Transparency is also important because it enables consumers to identify greenwashing when they encounter it. Greenwashing is when companies intentionally deceive consumers or oversell their efforts to be sustainable.

Amendi , a sustainable fashion brand focusing on transparency and traceability, co-founded by Columbia University alumnus Corey Spencer, has begun a campaign to get the Federal Trade Commission to update its Green Guides, which outline the principles for the use of green claims. When the most recent versions of the Green Guides were released in 2012, they did not scrutinize the use of “sustainability” and “organic” in marketing. The use of these terms has exploded since then and unless regulated, could become meaningless or misleading.

What consumers can do

fashion industry issues research topics

The key to making fashion sustainable is the consumer. If we want the fashion industry to adopt more sustainable practices, then as shoppers, we need to care about how clothing is made and where it comes from, and demonstrate these concerns through what we buy. The market will then respond.

We can also reduce waste through how we care for our clothing and how we discard it.

Here are some tips on how to be a responsible consumer:

  • Buy only what you need
  • Look for sustainable certification from the Fairtrade Foundation , Global Organic Textiles Standard , Soil Association , and Fair Wear Foundation  
  • Check the Fashion Transparency Index to see how a company ranks in transparency.
  • Learn how to shop for quality and invest in higher-quality clothing
  • Choose natural fibers and single fiber garments
  • Wear clothing for longer
  • Take care of clothing: wash items less often, repair them so they last. Patagonia operates Worn Wear , a recycling and repair program.
  • Upcycle your unwanted clothes into something new
  • Buy secondhand or vintage; sell your old clothes at Thred Up, Poshmark, or the Real Real.
  • When discarding, pass clothing on to someone who will wear it, or to a thrift shop
  • Rent clothing from Rent the Runway , Armoire or Nuuly

“I think the best piece of clothing is the one that already exists. The best fabric is the fabric that already exists,” said Schiros. “Keeping things in the supply chain in as many loops and cycles as you can is really, really important.”

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I’ve been buying second hand and or making my own clothes my whole life and I’m 72. It makes sense, it’s cost effective and that way you can buy more clothes or fabric. Win win.

Susow

So r u saying it is more cheap this way?

park Min-Young

yes it does im the youngest of 7 so i get hand me downs it way more ecofrindly to

Marilyn Walsh

This is an excellent article! I am writing a paper on sustainable fashion and find this article to be an informative and eloquent resource in my research! Thank you!

Itzel

What has Fast Fashion done to the labor practices, working conditions and wages of workers in Asian countries and what can be done to promote more sustainable and fair practices in the industry?

LC Haro

Making your own garments from natural, and ideally organic, fabrics is one of the best ways to both love your wardrobe (because the color, fit and design is something that works for you, specifically) and you can incorporate Construction techniques that prolong the life of the seams and the garment overall. just make sure you shrink it first!

Fabric scraps can be saved and repurposed, as solid pieces or patch worked together. A scrunchie. A cloth bag. Menstrual pads. Potholders. Tiny cloth plant pots. Little travel bags to protect shoes, hairdryer, toiletries, to separate socks and underwear. There are high end men’s shirts that incorporate interesting prints inside the collar and cuffs, for example. Then there is the ministry of making quilts. Quilts can be sent to refugees who Use them for warmth at night and for walls by day. they don’t have to be elaborate or elegant, but using a little bit of love and creativity, you can create something attractive. Torn sheets and worn out clothes can be repurposed and using them as fabric to instruct young sewers And how to handle different types of fabric is another worthy use. Imperfect attempts could be useful if the learner turns out a dog bed cover, or little sweaters for those dogs that get cold all the time. Animal shelters are usually very happy to receive these kinds of things.

Sewers can meet together for fabric swaps in the same way that people sometimes get together to do wardrobe swaps. That might be that someone else is done with the exact fabric that would be awesome to mix with something that you have left over.

ali farhan

very interesting. please share with us

ali farhan

your information is very helpfull.

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  • Open access
  • Published: 27 December 2018

The global environmental injustice of fast fashion

  • Rachel Bick 1   na1 ,
  • Erika Halsey 1   na1 &
  • Christine C. Ekenga   ORCID: orcid.org/0000-0002-6209-4888 1  

Environmental Health volume  17 , Article number:  92 ( 2018 ) Cite this article

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145 Citations

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Fast fashion, inexpensive and widely available of-the-moment garments, has changed the way people buy and dispose of clothing. By selling large quantities of clothing at cheap prices, fast fashion has emerged as a dominant business model, causing garment consumption to skyrocket. While this transition is sometimes heralded as the “democratization” of fashion in which the latest styles are available to all classes of consumers, the human and environmental health risks associated with inexpensive clothing are hidden throughout the lifecycle of each garment. From the growth of water-intensive cotton, to the release of untreated dyes into local water sources, to worker’s low wages and poor working conditions; the environmental and social costs involved in textile manufacturing are widespread.

In this paper, we posit that negative externalities at each step of the fast fashion supply chain have created a global environmental justice dilemma. While fast fashion offers consumers an opportunity to buy more clothes for less, those who work in or live near textile manufacturing facilities bear a disproportionate burden of environmental health hazards. Furthermore, increased consumption patterns have also created millions of tons of textile waste in landfills and unregulated settings. This is particularly applicable to low and middle-income countries (LMICs) as much of this waste ends up in second-hand clothing markets. These LMICs often lack the supports and resources necessary to develop and enforce environmental and occupational safeguards to protect human health. We discuss the role of industry, policymakers, consumers, and scientists in promoting sustainable production and ethical consumption in an equitable manner.

Peer Review reports

Fast fashion is a term used to describe the readily available, inexpensively made fashion of today. The word “fast” describes how quickly retailers can move designs from the catwalk to stores, keeping pace with constant demand for more and different styles. With the rise of globalization and growth of a global economy, supply chains have become international, shifting the growth of fibers, the manufacturing of textiles, and the construction of garments to areas with cheaper labor. Increased consumption drives the production of inexpensive clothing, and prices are kept down by outsourcing production to low and middle-income countries (LMICs).

Globally, 80 billion pieces of new clothing are purchased each year, translating to $1.2 trillion annually for the global fashion industry. The majority of these products are assembled in China and Bangladesh while the United States consumes more clothing and textiles than any other nation in the world [ 1 ]. Approximately 85 % of the clothing Americans consume, nearly 3.8 billion pounds annually, is sent to landfills as solid waste, amounting to nearly 80 pounds per American per year [ 2 , 3 ].

The global health costs associated with the production of cheap clothing are substantial. While industrial disasters such as the 1911 Triangle Shirtwaist Factory fire have led to improved occupational protections and work standards in the United States, the same cannot be said for LMICs. The hazardous working conditions that attracted regulatory attention in the United States and European Union have not been eliminated, but merely shifted overseas. The social costs associated with the global textile and garment industry are significant as well. Defined as “all direct and indirect losses sustained by third persons or the general public as a result of unrestrained economic activities,” the social costs involved in the production of fast fashion include damages to the environment, human health, and human rights at each step along the production chain [ 4 ].

Fast fashion as a global environmental justice issue

Environmental justice is defined by the United States Environmental Protection Agency, as the “fair treatment and meaningful involvement of all people regardless of race, color national origin, or income, with respect to the development, implementation, and enforcement of environmental laws, regulations and policies” [ 5 ]. In the United States, this concept has primarily been used in the scientific literature and in practice to describe the disproportionate placement of superfund sites (hazardous waste sites) in or near communities of color. However, environmental justice, as it has been defined, is not limited to the United States and need not be constrained by geopolitical boundaries. The textile and garment industries, for example, shift the environmental and occupational burdens associated with mass production and disposal from high income countries to the under-resourced (e.g. low income, low-wage workers, women) communities in LMICs. Extending the environmental justice framework to encompass the disproportionate impact experienced by those who produce and dispose of our clothing is essential to understanding the magnitude of global injustice perpetuated through the consumption of cheap clothing. In the context of Sustainable Development Goal (SDG) 12 which calls for sustainable consumption and production as part of national and sectoral plans, sustainable business practices, consumer behavior, and the reduction and elimination of fast fashion should all be a target of global environmental justice advocates.

Environmental hazards during production

The first step in the global textile supply chain is textile production, the process by which both natural and synthetic fibers are made. Approximately 90 % of clothing sold in the United States is made with cotton or polyester, both associated with significant health impacts from the manufacturing and production processes [ 6 ]. Polyester, a synthetic textile, is derived from oil, while cotton requires large amounts of water and pesticides to grow. Textile dyeing results in additional hazards as untreated wastewater from dyes are often discharged into local water systems, releasing heavy metals and other toxicants that can adversely impact the health of animals in addition to nearby residents [ 6 ].

Occupational hazards during production

Garment assembly, the next step in the global textile supply chain, employs 40 million workers around the world [ 7 ]. LMICs produce 90% of the world’s clothing. Occupational and safety standards in these LMICs are often not enforced due to poor political infrastructure and organizational management [ 8 ]. The result is a myriad of occupational hazards, including respiratory hazards due to poor ventilation such as cotton dust and synthetic air particulates, and musculoskeletal hazards from repetitive motion tasks. The health hazards that prompted the creation of textile labor unions in the United States and the United Kingdom in the early 1900’s have now shifted to work settings in LMICs. In LMICs, reported health outcomes include debilitating and life-threatening conditions such as lung disease and cancer, damage to endocrine function, adverse reproductive and fetal outcomes, accidental injuries, overuse injuries and death [ 9 , 10 , 11 ]. Periodic reports of international disasters, such as the 2013 Rana Plaza factory collapse which killed 1134 Bangladeshi workers, are stark reminders of the health hazards faced by garment workers. These disasters, however, have not demonstrably changed safety standards for workers in LMICs [ 12 ].

Textile waste

While getting finished garments to consumers in the high-income countries is seen as the end of the line for the fashion industry, environmental injustices continue long after the garment is sold. The fast fashion model encourages consumers to view clothing as disposable. In fact, the average American throws away approximately 80 pounds of clothing and textiles annually, occupying nearly 5% of landfill space [ 3 ]. Clothing not sent directly to the landfill often ends up in the second-hand clothing trade. Approximately 500,000 tons of used clothing are exported abroad from the United States each year, the majority ending up in LMICs [ 8 ]. In 2015, the United States exported more than $700 million worth of used clothing [ 13 ]. Second-hand clothing not sold in the United States market is compressed into 1000-pound bales and exported overseas to be “graded” (sorted, categorized and re-baled) by low-wage workers in LMICs and sold in second-hand markets. Clothing not sold in markets becomes solid waste, clogging rivers, greenways, and parks, and creating the potential for additional environmental health hazards in LMICs lacking robust municipal waste systems.

Solutions, innovation, and social justice

Ensuring environmental justice at each stage in the global supply chain remains a challenge. Global environmental justice will be dependent upon innovations in textile development, corporate sustainability, trade policy, and consumer habits.

Sustainable fibers

The sustainability of a fiber refers to the practices and policies that reduce environmental pollution and minimize the exploitation of people or natural resources in meeting lifestyle needs. Across the board, natural cellulosic and protein fibers are thought to be better for the environment and for human health, but in some cases manufactured fibers are thought to be more sustainable. Fabrics such as Lyocell, made from the cellulose of bamboo, are made in a closed loop production cycle in which 99% of the chemicals used to develop fabric fibers are recycled. The use of sustainable fibers will be key in minimizing the environmental impact of textile production.

Corporate sustainability

Oversight and certification organizations such as Fair Trade America and the National Council of Textiles Organization offer evaluation and auditing tools for fair trade and production standards. While some companies do elect to get certified in one or more of these independent accrediting programs, others are engaged in the process of “greenwashing.” Capitalizing on the emotional appeal of eco-friendly and fair trade goods, companies market their products as “green” without adhering to any criteria [ 14 ]. To combat these practices, industry-wide adoption of internationally recognized certification criteria should be adopted to encourage eco-friendly practices that promote health and safety across the supply chain.

Trade policy

While fair trade companies can attempt to compete with fast fashion retailers, markets for fair trade and eco-friendly textile manufacturing remain small, and ethically and environmentally sound supply chains are difficult and expensive to audit. High income countries can promote occupational safety and environmental health through trade policy and regulations. Although occupational and environmental regulations are often only enforceable within a country’s borders, there are several ways in which policymakers can mitigate the global environmental health hazards associated with fast fashion. The United States, for example, could increase import taxes for garments and textiles or place caps on annual weight or quantities imported from LMICs. At the other end of the clothing lifecycle, some LMICs have begun to regulate the import of used clothing. The United Nations Council for African Renewal, for example, recently released a report citing that “Rwanda, Tanzania and Uganda are raising taxes on secondhand clothes imports and at the same time offering incentives to local manufacturers” [ 15 ].

The role of the consumer

Trade policies and regulations will be the most effective solutions in bringing about large-scale change to the fast fashion industry. However, consumers in high income countries have a role to play in supporting companies and practices that minimize their negative impact on humans and the environment. While certifications attempt to raise industry standards, consumers must be aware of greenwashing and be critical in assessing which companies actually ensure a high level of standards versus those that make broad, sweeping claims about their social and sustainable practices [ 14 ]. The fast fashion model thrives on the idea of more for less, but the age-old adage “less in more” must be adopted by consumers if environmental justice issues in the fashion industry are to be addressed. The United Nation’s SDG 12, “Ensure sustainable consumption and production patterns,” seeks to redress the injustices caused by unfettered materialism. Consumers in high income countries can do their part to promote global environmental justice by buying high-quality clothing that lasts longer, shopping at second-hand stores, repairing clothing they already own, and purchasing from retailers with transparent supply chains.

Conclusions

In the two decades since the fast fashion business model became the norm for big name fashion brands, increased demand for large amounts of inexpensive clothing has resulted in environmental and social degradation along each step of the supply chain. The environmental and human health consequences of fast fashion have largely been missing from the scientific literature, research, and discussions surrounding environmental justice. The breadth and depth of social and environmental abuses in fast fashion warrants its classification as an issue of global environmental justice.

Environmental health scientists play a key role in supporting evidence-based public health. Similar to historical cases of environmental injustice in the United States, the unequal distribution of environmental exposures disproportionally impact communities in LMICs. There is an emerging need for research that examines the adverse health outcomes associated with fast fashion at each stage of the supply chain and post-consumer process, particularly in LMICs. Advancing work in this area will inform the translation of research findings to public health policies and practices that lead to sustainable production and ethical consumption.

Abbreviations

Low and middle-income countries

Sustainable Development Goal

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Rachel Bick and Erika Halsey contributed equally to this work.

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Bick, R., Halsey, E. & Ekenga, C.C. The global environmental injustice of fast fashion. Environ Health 17 , 92 (2018). https://doi.org/10.1186/s12940-018-0433-7

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  • Environmental health
  • Occupational health
  • Global health
  • Environmental justice
  • Sustainability
  • Fast fashion

Environmental Health

ISSN: 1476-069X

fashion industry issues research topics

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Sustainability trends and gaps in the textile, apparel and fashion industries

  • Open access
  • Published: 10 February 2023
  • Volume 26 , pages 2837–2864, ( 2024 )

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  • Stefano Abbate 1 ,
  • Piera Centobelli   ORCID: orcid.org/0000-0002-3302-2236 1 ,
  • Roberto Cerchione 2 ,
  • Simon Peter Nadeem 3 &
  • Emanuela Riccio 2  

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Textile, apparel, and fashion (TAF) industries contribute significantly to global environmental pollution at every point of the supply chain. Clothing manufacturing and transportation produce a large volume of waste and high greenhouse gas emissions, often taking advantage of cheap labor in developing countries. As a result, stakeholders are becoming more aware of the effect of the textile, apparel, and fashion industries on the climate and human rights, thus pushing businesses to mitigate their environmental damage. This paper offers a systematic literature review of sustainability trends in the TAF industries in the last 20 years. Bibliometric tools are also used to support the content analysis of the papers. The findings reveal three primary research areas in the TAF context: consumers’ behaviour towards sustainable clothing, circular economy initiatives, and sustainability challenges across the whole supply chain. As a result, this study highlights literature gaps and provides future research suggestions for each identified research cluster. In addition, drivers and barriers to implementing corporate social responsibility and circular economy practices are identified. Consequently, this study will help researchers and academicians work in this area to identify unexplored sub-fields, which reflect some potential investigation areas for expanding scientific literature on the topic. Finally, this study supports practitioners and managers in exploring the main research themes addressed in the scientific field, providing knowledge to improve and align business models with current sustainability trends.

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1 Introduction

The production and consumption of clothes have consistently increased over the past few decades due to rapid population growth, increasing global incomes, and higher living standards (Shirvanimoghaddam et al., 2020 ). Rather than evaluating how design and production can incorporate consumer desires and sustainability, clothes are engineered and manufactured for rapid trend turnovers via obsolescence and early disposal, allowing for fast income (Kozlowski et al., 2018 ). This type of business model makes textile, apparel, and fashion (TAF) industries among the most polluting in the world (Grazzini et al., 2021 ), generating a huge volume of clothing waste (Chan et al., 2020 ). Indeed, less than 1% of all textiles are recycled back into clothes, 25% of textile waste is reused or recycled, and 75% of textile trash is disposed of in landfills globally (Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2017 ). In terms of water consumption, the fashion industry ranks second globally (Paździor et al., 2017 ). In addition, the natural ecosystem suffers greatly from the dispersion into the environment of coloured effluents and microplastics, which occurs mainly in the clothing production and disposal stages (Liu et al., 2021 ; Sadeghi-Kiakhani et al., 2021 ). The COVID-19 pandemic has increased this phenomenon: the management of recently emerging wastes, often known as "COVID wastes," including cloth facemasks, is causing growing concern due to the release of microplastics into the environment (Shirvanimoghaddam et al., 2022 ). A potential solution to reduce the environmental consequences of cloth facemasks is using natural and biodegradable polymers for their production, such as wood-based polymers (Shirvanimoghaddam et al., 2022 ). In addition, textile waste can be repurposed for different applications. For instance, they can be used as a renewable source to produce thermal energy (Nunes et al., 2018 ). Pyrolysis is a desirable substitute for incineration in the treatment of textile waste to increase the economic benefits (Yousef et al., 2019 ). In addition, cotton waste can be a perfect material for creating high-performance catalysts and removing pollutants from the environment due to its natural state and affordability (Fakhrhoseini et al., 2020 ; Shirvanimoghaddam et al., 2019 ). Finally, different reusing and recycling methods for managing textile waste can be employed, such as anaerobic digestion, fermentation, composting, and fibre regeneration (Juanga-Labayen et al., 2022 ).

Furthermore, TAF industries account for eight to ten percentage of global greenhouse gas emissions (Shrivastava et al., 2021 ), recognised as the leading cause of global warming, those effects in nature create floods, droughts, hurricanes, and sea-level rise, which are becoming more common in daily life (Mishra et al., 2021 ). As a result, governments and institutions led to the Paris Agreement on climate change in December 2015, where 195 countries have committed to keeping the temperature rise below 2 °C (Doukas et al., 2018 ). Furthermore, fashion companies often entrust the transformation process of raw materials into finished clothing to developing countries, significantly affecting their social sustainability (Chan et al., 2020 ). Consequently, in addition to issues concerning carbon emissions, water consumption, and waste disposal, another major problem of the fashion industry is the overuse of employees working in outsourced production units in countries with unsafe work environments and lower labour costs (Shrivastava et al., 2021 ). According to the triple bottom line (TBL) framework, which was coined by Elkington, ( 1998 ), the performance of an apparel company should be thus measured taking into account three dimensions: economic, environmental, and social. Further, these three dimensions should be balanced, rather than just seeing economic factors as a means for society (Weisenfeld & Hauerwaas, 2018 ). However, in long and fragmented supply chains like apparel, harmonising these three dimensions entails difficult commitment and cooperation from different actors (Bubicz et al., 2021 ; Freise & Seuring, 2015 ; Huq et al., 2016 ). The longer and more complex the chain becomes, the less contact there is between the different stakeholders, and monitoring of compliance with codes of behaviour becomes more complex (Bubicz et al., 2021 ; Egels-Zandén et al., 2015 ; Macchion et al., 2015 ; Sardar et al., 2016 ; Taylor, 2011 ; Wilhelm et al., 2016 ). Government regulatory pressures are continuously coercing businesses to implement substantial changes at the technological, material, organisational, economic, and socio-cultural levels (Kivimaa et al., 2019 ). Further, in 2015, United Nations launched the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), characterised by 17 global goals and 169 targets, which aim to encourage all countries to prioritise environmental sustainability, social inclusion, and economic development (United Nations, 2015 ). These goals demonstrate the severity and scope of today's sustainability issues (Sauermann et al., 2020 ). Therefore, in order to achieve the SDGs, fashion companies must improve their corporate social responsibility (CSR) commitment in diverse areas, promoting more sustainable production and consumption models (SDG12), reducing water consumption (SDG6), and ensuring decent working conditions (SDG8).

As a result of these concerns and due to the growing interest in the United Nations SDGs, in recent years TAF industries are more prone to pay attention to sustainability issues (Islam et al., 2020 ; Kabir et al., 2019 ). TAF industries have been establishing initiatives considering eco-efficiency concepts and aspiring to implement environmental practices, including sustainability reporting activities (Muñoz-Torres et al., 2021 ), which generate, in turn, cost savings (Lucato et al., 2017 ). Improving resource efficiency by extending the useful life of products or services is one way to promote sustainable development through a more circular economy (Rainville, 2021 ). In this context, the product-as-a-service model, or rental model, is often associated with a number of advantages, including a decrease in the environmental impact, an improvement in competitiveness, and an increase in user value (Monticelli & Costamagna, 2022 ). Further, companies operating in TAF industries are looking for creative and innovative ways to keep their carbon emissions low and minimise waste (Kozlowski et al., 2018 ), an example is the use of biodegradable and recycled raw materials (Wang et al., 2019 ). Likewise, consumers are now becoming more aware of the ethical issues of the goods they purchase, and as a result, they are changing their shopping habits (De Angelis et al., 2017 ; Gershoff & Frels, 2015 ; Grazzini et al., 2021 ), thus pushing fashion industry to become eco-friendly.

Given the increasing attention on the topic, different researchers conducted literature reviews on sustainability in the fashion industry from diverse points of view. Notably, Koeksal et al. ( 2017 ) focused on social aspects in textile/apparel sustainable supply chain management (SSCM). Paras and Pal ( 2018 ) reviewed the literature to establish and suggest a theoretical framework for a reuse-based clothing value chain. Koszewska ( 2018 ) identified the textile sector's challenges in adapting to the circular economy (CE) model. Dordevic et al. ( 2019 ) reviewed different CSR theories and methods used in the textile/apparel industry. Wagner and Heinzel ( 2020 ) analysed the literature on CE in the fashion industry, focusing on consumer behaviours concerning the sustainable purchase, usage, consumption, and disposal. Islam et al. ( 2020 ) summarised the primary environmentally friendly practices adopted by TAF industries. Jia et al. ( 2020 ) identified drivers, barriers, strategies, and performance measures for the CE in the fashion industry. Finally, Ki et al. ( 2021 ) reviewed the literature to provide a theoretical framework that offers a detailed explanation of how fashion companies can achieve circularity by involving external stakeholders in their activities.

Based on the above premises, in the scientific literature, there is a lack of literature reviews that offers a holistic understanding of sustainability issues in the TAF industries and evaluates research advances and trends on the topic to benefit multiple stakeholders. This paper aims to overcome these research gaps with a comprehensive overview of sustainability trends in the TAF manufacturing context. In addition, this research highlights both CSR and CE principles, supporting academicians, policymakers, practitioners, and other decision-makers in exploring the main research themes addressed in the scientific field. This paper is expected to contribute to the literature in the following ways. First, this study addresses the research gaps by offering a holistic perspective of a study area that is rapidly expanding. Second, this research combines the review process with bibliometric techniques. Although the growing interest in the research field, these approaches have not yet been adopted to explore sustainability progress in the TAF industries. Third, drivers and barriers to implementing CSR and CE practices are identified. Notably, CE is a production and consumption model that aims to extend products’ useful lives by helping to minimise waste, while CSR is often described as corporate practices that address economic, social, and environmental issues to benefit citizens, communities, and societies. The proposed taxonomy could be a reference point for further empirical studies. Finally, this article develops a conceptual model based on the extracted research clusters that integrate previous research findings, highlight research gaps, and offers guidance and potential avenues for further research to fill in the literature gaps.

After this introduction, Sect.  2 describes the review methodology adopted. Section  3 shows the data collection and selection phase. Sections  4 and Sect.  5 highlight descriptive and content analysis of the articles. Section  6 reports research discussions and provides a detailed research agenda. Finally, Sect.  7 presents conclusions and implications, highlighting theoretical and managerial contributions, as well as the research policy implication.

2 Review methodology

This study presents a systematic literature review adapted by Greenhalgh ( 1997 ), Cerchione and Esposito ( 2016 ), and Centobelli et al. ( 2017 ). Therefore, according to these contributions, we structured the literature review into two primary phases:

Data collection and selection: this phase includes identifying keywords and the search string, choosing the academic database (e.g. Scopus and Web of Science) to retrieve documents, and defining the inclusion/exclusion criteria to obtain papers focused on the research topic examined

Descriptive and content analysis phase: this phase includes conducting descriptive statistics (e.g. papers over time and articles by methodology) and an in-depth content analysis of the selected papers, aiming at identifying research gaps and providing a research agenda for further investigation.

Furthermore, we applied bibliometric methods to support the content analysis phase (van der Have & Rubalcaba, 2016 ). Notably, bibliometric techniques represent powerful tools to analyse scientific literature in a specific research field quantitatively (Ji et al., 2018 ; Zhi & Ji, 2012 ). One of the primary bibliometric methods is science mapping (Dzikowski, 2018 ) and it was used to discover the research field structure of a given topic (Cancino et al., 2017 ; Merigó et al., 2017 ; Shashi et al., 2021 ). This analysis can be implemented through numerous computer software. In this paper, we used VOSviewer software to build and visualise co-occurrence networks of keywords and paper terms, showing the main topics studied and suggestions for future research (Liboni et al., 2019 ). In particular, the co-occurrence analysis of keywords is an effective method for identifying research themes since it helps analyse the paper's content and assess the co-occurrence relationship between different concepts (Shashi et al., 2020a , 2020b ). Furthermore, the co-occurrence network of abstract terms is used to show research clusters based on recurrent terms that appear together (Liboni et al., 2019 ). According to van der Have and Rubalcaba ( 2016 ), the higher the frequency that keywords and paper terms co-occur, the stronger they are linked because they belong to a similar research sub-area. Thus, we aim to overcome this lack by offering a comprehensive literature review. Figure  1 synthesises the steps of the proposed literature review methodology.

figure 1

Literature review methodology

3 Data collection and selection

The sample of articles was retrieved from the ISI Web of Science (WoS) database. More specifically, the WoS Core Collection was used in this study. Due to the high quality and extensive background coverage, the WoS database has traditionally been used as the primary source for literature reviews (Alon et al., 2018 ; Bahoo et al., 2020 ; Cao & Alon, 2020 ). Moreover, WoS is considered a leading data source compared to other scholarly research databases (e.g. Scopus and Google Scholar) since it only contains selective journals (Shashi et al., 2020b ). More precisely, WoS includes over 15,000 high-quality journals and 50,000,000 papers, organised into 251 categories and 150 research topics (Gaviria-Marin et al., 2019 ; Shashi et al., 2020a ).

After a brainstorming process among five researchers, a list of keywords was identified to carry out a systematic search and find articles regarding the issue of sustainability in the TAF industries. Further, the list of keywords was refined from time to time by including the keywords of the papers found previously. Finally, the following search string was used:

("textile industr*" OR "textile sector*" OR “clothing” OR “clothes” OR “garment” OR “fashion” OR “apparel”) AND (“green” OR "environmental performance" OR "financial performance" OR "social performance" OR “green” OR "economic* performance" OR "environmental benefit*" OR "financial benefit*" OR "economic* benefit*" OR "social benefit*" OR "ethical" OR "SDG*" OR "sustainable development" OR "corporate social responsibility" OR "triple bottom line" OR "environment-friendly" OR "eco-friendly" OR "circular economy" OR “reuse” OR "re-use" OR “recycling” OR "life cycle assessment" OR "life cycle analysis" OR “LCA” OR (“sustainab*”)) AND (“environment*” OR “economic*” OR “social”). We retrieved only documents that contain those terms in the title to circumscribe the research and identify only relevant outputs on the topic investigated.

To perform bibliometric analyses, we downloaded the full record and cited references of scholarly articles in the Web of Science Core Collection (Kern et al., 2019 ). The sample of 563 documents was retrieved in October 2022. We used different filters to refine our analysis. First, we chose to not consider papers published before 2000 due to the actuality of the topic (Desore & Narula, 2018 ) and we aim to conduct a review of the last two decades. Second, we collected only papers written in the English language (Shashi et al., 2020a , 2020b ). Subsequently, to ensure the sources’ quality, we decided to select only articles and reviews published in peer-reviewed journals, thus excluding other types of sources such as conference proceedings and book series (Shashi et al., 2020b ). As a result, 406 papers were collected.

Furthermore, according to the method suggested by Pittaway et al. ( 2004 ), we carefully checked the abstracts of all the selected papers so that only those studies whose abstracts focus on sustainability in the TAF industries were selected. To avoid subjective decisions, two researchers read the abstracts of the articles in parallel, with the intervention of a third researcher in case of uncertainty (Cerchione & Esposito, 2016 ). Thus, as also displayed in Table 1 , the papers were divided into the following two lists: list A includes documents whose abstract focuses on sustainability in the TAF industries and list B includes documents whose abstract focuses on technical and context-specific aspects of sustainability (e.g. processing, atmospheric emissions due to production waste, the chemistry of eco-sustainable fabrics)

The articles contained in list B (213) were excluded as beyond the scope of the research. The full text of the 193 articles included in list A were thoroughly examined and subjected to the last exclusion criterion. Also, in this case, two researchers read the papers in parallel, plus a third one in case of doubt (Cerchione & Esposito, 2016 ). In this step, we excluded 32 documents not related to the research topic. To identify the remaining potentially important studies in our set, we used the 'snowball' strategy as an inclusion criterion (Greenhalgh & Peacock, 2005 ). We included 17 additional publications, and the final sample thus consists of 178 papers.

4 Descriptive analysis

The purpose of the descriptive analysis is to provide a general view of the papers on sustainability in the TAF industries. For the evaluation of the 178 papers selected, four viewpoints were identified: 1) distribution of papers over time; 2) distribution of papers across journals; 3) distribution of papers by methodology; and 4) distribution of papers by country.

4.1 Distribution of papers over time

Figure  2 shows the distribution of the selected papers published between 2000 and 2022. The number of papers written has grown exponentially, reaching a maximum of 38 in 2021. The data collection was conducted in October 2022. According to this analysis, in the last five years, research on sustainability in TAF industries has grown significantly. Indeed, approximately 85% of the papers examined were written between 2017 and October-2022.

figure 2

Papers over time

4.2 Distribution of papers across journals

The journals that published at least three papers on sustainability in the TAF industries from 2000 to October 2022 are classified in Fig.  3 . The top journals publishing on the research topic have a broader scope and belong to different areas, confirming that the analysis of sustainability issues in the TAF industries have grown over the years in a broader range. In particular, Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management (14), followed by Journal of Cleaner Production (9), International Journal of Consumer Studies (7), Journal of Business Research (6), and Corporate Social Responsibility and Environmental Management (6), Journal of Business Ethics (3), Business Strategy and the Environment (3), and Asia Pacific Journal of Marketing and Logistics (3). According to the SCImago Journal Rank (SJR) updated to the year 2020, used to determine each journal's scientific importance, all of the journals displayed in Fig.  3 are in the first quartile (Q1), except for Asia Pacific Journal of Marketing and Logistics and International Journal of Consumer Studies , which are in the second quartile (Q2).

figure 3

Papers published per journal

4.3 Distribution of papers by methodology

The distribution of papers by methodology represented in Fig.  4 shows that about 50% of the studies are based on quantitative approaches (e.g. surveys and mathematical models), while 23% of the papers use qualitative approaches (e.g. single and multiple case studies). A few other papers use conceptual approaches, literature review approaches, and mixed approaches (combining qualitative and quantitative methods).

figure 4

Papers by methodology

4.4 Distribution of papers by country

This analysis highlights the most productive countries in the research field investigated. Notably, certain papers were co-authored by researchers from different countries, while authors from the same nationality co-authored others. The country of each researcher who co-authored the article is counted in the first situation. On the contrary, the country is only counted once, even if two or more researchers from the same country co-authored the paper. As shown in Fig.  5 , USA is at the top of the ranking with 35 publications, followed by the UK (26), and China (25).

figure 5

Papers by country

5 Content analysis

5.1 keywords analysis.

This analysis found 833 different keywords in the sample of 178 papers. The research focused on keywords that had at least eight repetitions (Liboni et al., 2019 ). Consequently, a total of 25 unique keywords were chosen (Fig.  6 ). In particular, the keyword “sustainability” emerged as the most recurrent with 45 repetitions, followed by “consumption” (26), “circular economy” (24), “fashion” (23), and “corporate social responsibility” (20).

figure 6

Co-occurrence analysis of keywords

“Appendix 1 " highlights the 20 most cited keywords and their total link strength. The most frequent keywords offer an in-depth understanding of the critical topics investigated. Furthermore, the keyword sustainability is strongly linked with the others, and its relationship with "fast fashion", "supply chain", and "consumption" highlights that scientific literature in the TAF domain is extensively focused on studying more sustainable business models which can reduce the environmental footprint in all the phases of the supply chain. The term “fast fashion” refers to a business model defined by constant shift, innovation, affordability, and disposable patterns concerning low-cost apparel products that replicate existing luxury fashion trends (Joy et al., 2012 ). Diverse scientific studies have confirmed that fast fashion's disposal nature leads to serious environmental, health, social, and economic issues (Shirvanimoghaddam et al., 2020 ). As a result, various alternative business models have been developed. For instance, the clothing product-service system (PSS) recognises various sustainability targets as an alternative to the effects of consumption and fast fashion (Johnson & Plepys, 2021 ). This business model is based on rental rather than purchase, allowing to extend the useful life of a garment and reduce waste. Thus, PSS shifts the emphasis to complementary service offerings, which dematerialises and decouples consumer loyalty from material use (Adam et al., 2017 ). Another primary problem for fashion companies' is the supply chain length and complexity, causing coordination and sustainability concerns. According to Carlson and Bitsch ( 2018 ), a sustainable supply chain is a crucial element for industry, government, and civil society. Recent research highlights that fashion retailers often engage procurement intermediaries to handle their international sourcing with suppliers from manufacturers operating in developing countries, improving coordination and transparency (Koeksal et al., 2018 ).

5.2 Cluster analysis based on abstract terms

In our sample of articles, the co-occurrence analysis of abstract terms has shown 3657 different recurrent words. However, we selected only terms with at least nine repetitions and just 27 terms resulted in the analysis (Liboni et al., 2019 ). Figure  7 displays its network visualisation. “Appendix 2 ” highlights the 20 most recurrent abstract terms and their relevance score. Using VOSviewer, we divided the abstract terms into three different research clusters:

Cluster 1: consumer behaviour concerning sustainable clothing consumption

Cluster 2: circular economy and corporate social responsibility issues in the TAF industries

Cluster 3: impact of sustainability initiatives on corporate performance.

figure 7

Co-occurrence network of abstract terms

5.2.1 Consumer behaviour concerning sustainable clothing consumption

This cluster is focused on sustainable clothing consumption through the lens of consumer behaviour. The consumer's vision of eco-sustainable clothing is a central theme in the literature on TAF industries. The previously reserved attention for an elite audience is now directed to an increasingly widespread profile of evolved consumers who are more interested in the origin of what they buy and the traceability of the supply chain. Therefore, the customer plays a crucial role in the sustainable context, so it is vital to understand his point of view towards eco-sustainable, recycled, or used products. The majority of contributions included in this cluster are surveys, in which the relationship between the constructs was tested chiefly through structural equation modelling (SEM). In light of the theory of planned behaviour, most of these studies investigate the factors influencing sustainable apparel purchase intention (e.g. Dhir et al., 2021 ; Hwang et al., 2020 ; Kang et al., 2013 ; Karaosman et al., 2015 ; Nguyen et al., 2019 ; Sobuj et al., 2021 ; Zhao et al., 2019 ), revealing that sustainable clothing buying is positively correlated with different antecedents, such as green confidence, environmental awareness, social media usage, environmental attitude, labelling satisfaction, subjective norms, and perceived behavioural regulation. Other studies focused specifically on the young generations. For example, Varshneya et al. ( 2017 ) surveyed young consumers to explore how green consumption principles and social influence affect buying organic clothing. In particular, using a multinominal logit model, Rothenberg and Matthews ( 2017 ) determined the primary factors influencing young consumers to buy eco-friendly t-shirts. The findings suggest that consumers prioritised price, followed by the location of production, and finally, sustainability issues. Other studies analysed the existing attitude-behaviour gap and examined consumers' barriers to buying green clothing (Jacobs et al., 2018 ; Wiederhold & Martinez, 2018 ). Finally, Byrd and Su ( 2020 ) surveyed 399 US consumers to discover how they feel about apparel brands and how they behave when it comes to environmentally friendly, affordable, and socially conscious clothing. Further research focused on the motivations for using sharing economy platforms (Lee & Huang, 2020 ; Ek Styvén and Mariani, 2020 ), indicating that consumers' intentions to use online fashion rental services were positively affected by different factors, such as behaviours, subjective norms, perceived environmental sustainability, economic motivation, and distance from the consumption system. On another note, Silva et al. ( 2021 ) revealed that social shame and consumers' lack of knowledge about available outlets are the factors that most negatively affect the purchasing of second-hand clothing.

Moreover, many studies examined recycled and reused products from various perspectives. Some researchers investigated how consumers handle their apparel waste, including reselling, swapping, taking back, and donating (Lai & Chang, 2020 ; Weber et al., 2020 ), highlighting that environmental principles and prosocial attitudes affected customers' decisions to donate clothes. Other studies surveyed random samples to investigate consumer recycling and reusing apparel behaviour (Paco et al., 2021 ; Zurga et al., 2015 ). Further, Park and Lin ( 2020 ) examined the discrepancy between purchasing purpose and purchase experience in recycled and upcycled fashion items. Other studies focused on behaviour intentions for the consumption of reused clothing, recycled clothes, and upcycled garments (Chaturvedi et al., 2020 ; Kim et al., 2021 ). Notably, Meng and Leary ( 2021 ) explored consumer perception concerning the transformation of recycled bottles into new clothes. Consumers perceive this practice negatively for hygienic reasons, reducing purchasing intent. Finally, Cruz-Cardenas et al. ( 2019 ) conducted a multiple case study based on 20 thorough interviews followed by a survey of 425 consumers to investigate the factors affecting clothing reuse, highlighting different antecedents, such as income and altruism.

5.2.2 Circular economy and corporate social responsibility issues in the TAF industries

This cluster concerns CE and CSR issues in the TAF industries. Unlike the previous one, this cluster includes many explorative studies since the CE and CSR implementation is still in its early stages, necessitating a more detailed understanding based on qualitative analysis (Colucci & Vecchi, 2021 ). In particular, the CE principles significantly improve sustainability in the way textile products are fabricated, consumed and disposed of (Staicu & Pop, 2018 ). Different frameworks have been developed to help fashion companies transition from a linear to a CE model (e.g. Mishra et al., 2021 ). Indeed, several critical factors need to be explored for developing a circular product in the textile industry context, such as sustainable product design and reverse logistics (Franco, 2017 ). Concepts such as repairability, recyclability, longevity, and reuse and disposal of products are much debated in the literature. Although they are still at the early stages, different methods for reusing, recycling, and regenerating textile waste as well as various technological innovations and plans for a circular textile economy have been developed (Shirvanimoghaddam et al., 2020 ). In this regard, Moazzem et al. ( 2021 ) used the life cycle assessment (LCA) methodology to evaluate environmental benefits due to different textile waste recycling opportunities. The findings show that cleaning wipes recycling has the most significant impact benefits, followed by cotton fibre, insulation material, and polyester raw material recycling. Sandvik and Stubbs ( 2019 ) conducted a multiple case study based on semi-structured interviews to determine drivers and barriers to implementing a textile-to-textile recycling technology in the Scandinavian fashion industry. Restricted technology (which makes separating materials difficult), high research and development costs, and the supply chain complexity (which includes many stakeholders involved in the manufacture), represent the key barriers. Simultaneously, the design and use of new fabrics and increased apparel collection and collaboration are the main drivers.

Furthermore, many studies used a case study approach to investigate the challenges and solutions that fashion brands face while developing and testing CE strategies within their current business models (Kant Hvass & Pedersen, 2019 ; Colucci & Vecchi, 2021 ). The findings show that fashion companies face several obstacles in implementing circular business models in their organisations, including divergent perspectives of value and undefined performance metrics, weak alignment with the current strategy, a lack of internal skills and competencies, and a lack of customer interest. Further, Paras et al. ( 2018 ) conducted a multiple case study based on semi-structured interviews with Swedish companies to explore the reuse-based clothing value chain drivers. The results suggest that the main drivers are corporate factors (system, legislation, and awareness), product features (design, quality and price), and consumer attitude (donor and purchaser).

Other studies focused on the slow fashion movement. According to Onur ( 2020 ), the slow fashion movement believes that the fashion industry should not continue operating in the same way it has in the past, putting the world’s finite resources at risk. As a result, the author offered a detailed account of creating new learning methods and designing via upcycling, craft, and collaboration in developing countries. For instance, Friedrich ( 2021 ) investigated the potential of applying biobased products in the textile industry, making the economy more sustainable and lowering the dependence on synthetic materials. Tama et al. ( 2017 ) surveyed Turkish university students to investigate clothing awareness and attitudes regarding environmental sustainability and slow fashion, and the findings highlighted a lack of knowledge about the slow fashion paradigm.

Moreover, some of the studies analysed circular business models based on clothing swapping, PSSs, and collaborative fashion consumption (CFC). Notably, clothing swapping is an example of a circular solution that allows extending the useful life of a product (Camacho-Otero et al., 2020 ), while the CFC is an economic model focused on clothing sharing, second-hand purchases, and renting or leasing (Zamani et al., 2018 ). Compared to a traditional ownership-based consumption model, the CFC offers environmental benefits due to the extension of the clothes’ useful life. On another note, Bech et al. ( 2019 ) used the LCA approach to assess and compare a PSS business model’s environmental impact on t-shirts and a reference business model.

Furthermore, different studies used the multiple case study design to examine CSR strategies’ drivers and barriers (Govindasamy & Suresh, 2018 ; Guedes et al., 2017 ; Koeksal & Straehle, 2021 ; Van & Nguyen, 2019 ), showing that the main drivers are the competitive context, the social influences, the managers’ knowledge of CSR, the company’s internal culture, as well as market promotion and building a reputation with stakeholders and the government. Additionally, the most significant obstacles were a lack of resources in expertise, information, finance, and training, as well as the cost of CSR initiatives and internal and external communication. Further obstacles were the complexity of the green process and system design, as well as the lack of regulatory support (Majumdar & Sinha, 2018 ).

5.2.3 Impact of sustainability initiatives on corporate performance

The studies of this cluster investigated how different sustainable initiatives affect corporate performance (Chan et al., 2020 ; Saha et al., 2021 ; Sudusinghe & Seuring, 2020 ; Wong & Ngai, 2021 ; Yang & Jang, 2020 ). In particular, Ali et al. ( 2020 ) revealed that fashion companies that successfully implemented ISO 14001 environmental management system (EMS) reported substantial efficiency improvements compared to companies that have not yet EMS.

Specifically, some studies focused on the sustainable supply chain, which is achieved when the objectives are shared by all the actors involved. This entails reconsidering production flows, operations, and materials, limiting the polluting effects that flow into the environment, limiting production waste, extending the life cycle of the products, and improving social conditions. Kumar et al. ( 2020 ) used the Delphi-based fuzzy Analytical Hierarchy Process approach to identify long-term factors for implementing social responsibility-based sourcing in the ready-made apparel supply chain in Bangladesh. Further, Ashby ( 2018 ) used an in-depth case study to explore how a closed-loop supply chain (CLSC) can improve the environmental performance of a UK clothing company. The results highlight the crucial role of strategic resources and a shared vision and culture among the company and its suppliers, from a more reactive environmental damage prevention plan to a comprehensive CLSC. Jesus Munoz-Torres et al. ( 2021 ) used the LCA method to quantify textile companies’ environmental impact throughout the supply chain and compare their performance with global and sectorial sustainability challenges. The findings reveal a connection between global environmental issues and corporate environmental disclosure.

5.2.4 Taxonomy of CE and CSR drivers and barriers

Based on the previous literature, Table 2 highlights the main factors which potentially affect the propensity of fashion companies to adopt CE and CSR principles, as well as the main barriers hindering their implementation. The proposed taxonomy might serve as a starting point for more empirical research.

6 Discussions and future research directions

The descriptive analysis provided a general overview of the articles included in the literature review, highlighting that, in recent years, there is growing attention on sustainability in the TAF industries and that these topics present different scopes, belong to different disciplines, and are covered by different journals.

The content analysis of the selected articles highlighted the literature’s strengths and weaknesses, thus identifying current research and providing research ideas for future investigation. It is possible to classify the selected papers into five main research areas: 1) consumer behaviour; 2) circular economy; 3) corporate social responsibility; 4) business models; and 5) supply chain management. Table 3 offers a more in-depth discussion of existing research and future research suggestions for each of these scientific areas.

The first research area discusses the drivers influencing sustainable apparel purchasing (e.g. labelling satisfaction and environmental awareness), clothing reuse (e.g. income and altruism), as well as different clothing disposal behaviour (e.g. donation and recycling). Firstly, future research could perform a meta-analysis to generalise the empirical results of previous quantitative investigations on sustainable clothing consumer behaviour, thereby obtaining more robust conclusions than those drawn from each study. Further, as the production activities, business processes and materials contribute to an increase in the global pollution rate, eco-design features, ecological materials, processes with low environmental impact, and waste reduction have been developed in recent years (Heinze, 2020 ). This area shows the need for a more in-depth analysis of the eco-design characteristics that positively influence the ethical clothing consumer’s purchase intentions. Further, there is also a lack of studies investigating the efficiency and effectiveness of the communication tools adopted by TAF companies to encourage consumers to purchase sustainable clothing. For instance, compared to traditional channels, such as reports and advertising campaigns, corporate websites are constantly being used to present the business’ formalised and official viewpoint on CSR activities (Mann et al., 2014 ). The consumers’ opinion on this aspect could therefore be more in-depth analysed in further investigation.

The second research area focuses on drivers and barriers to adopting CE strategies in the TAF industries. In the TAF industries, due to the variety of fabrics and clothing accessories used, such as buttons and zips, end-of-life textiles are difficult to handle after disposal (Marques et al., 2020 ). Since there are presently few technologies available for separating recyclable textile waste from non-recyclable textile waste, employees still do much of the job by hand (Centobelli et al., 2022 ). Future studies could therefore design and develop new technological advances for managing and sorting textile waste. Automating the process and launching it on an industrial scale will therefore be the key to a real revolution in the world of fabrics.

Furthermore, many of the articles we analysed use the LCA methodology to evaluate companies’ environmental impact throughout the supply chain. However, there is a lack of studies examining the environmental and economic impact of different sustainable and circular clothing using the LCA and Life Cycle Costing (LCC) methodologies. Indeed, the integration of these methods will provide a holistic understanding of sustainable clothing production, allowing companies to choose materials that guarantee greater added value and which at the same time respect the environment.

The third research area is mainly focused on CSR drivers and barriers. Organisations require greater attention to social and environmental issues to develop a successful business. As a result, companies are changing their modus operandi, developing sustainable initiatives from a social and environmental point of view. According to Zhu et al., ( 2016 ), businesses are under pressure from stakeholders to reduce the negative environmental impact they generate while increasing CSR initiatives. Companies recognise the strategic importance of reacting to stakeholder concerns as a means of strengthening their competitive position (Zhu et al., 2016 ). Consequently, future studies on the analysis of stakeholder concerns in the context of TAF industries are needed to develop a holistic corporate sustainability strategy.

The fourth research area discusses different types of business models in the field of TAF industries. A vast majority discusses the PSSs and the fast fashion model. However, this area highlights the need for a more comprehensive analysis of the slow fashion business model. Slow fashion is based on various principles, such as the quality of the products, the recycled and eco-compatible materials, and the short supply chain (Jung & Jin, 2016 ). Consequently, this type of business requires greater awareness of consumers and manufacturers, as it tends to reduce the production cycle and consequently consumption. Slow fashion is aimed at safeguarding the climate, workers, natural resources, and the economy. However, due to the higher costs of slow fashion products compared to mass-produced clothes, the potential of slow fashion to make and maintain a profit represents a critical point that should be explored better. It is necessary to investigate the external pressures affecting the development of the slow fashion business model, also considering all the issues related to the transition to this new type of business model. Further, there is a lack of studies examining the circular business model innovations in the TAF industries (Henry et al., 2020 ). More in detail, according to the taxonomy proposed by Urbinati et al., ( 2017 ), three types of circular companies can be identified: downstream, upstream, and full circular companies. Downstream circular businesses follow a pricing scheme or a marketing strategy focused on product use and re-use, but these contributions neglect the necessary changes at the supplier level or internal processes or product design. On another note, upstream circular companies are described as those that implement circular solutions internally (e.g. using recycled raw materials) and focus on the interactions with their suppliers. Finally, full circular companies implement both downstream and upstream circular business model innovations. As a result, future studies could examine the degree of circularity of the TAF companies, analysing if circular business model innovations are implemented downstream, upstream, or both.

Finally, the fifth research area mainly focuses on the analysis of different social and environmental sustainability challenges along the fashion supply chain. From this research area emerged the need to explore the role of digital technologies in improving sustainability performance. Indeed, digital enabling technologies like blockchain can guarantee the complete traceability and transparency of products, thus optimising the entire supply chain and improving company performance (Centobelli et al., 2021 ). Consequently, these technologies could be an excellent resource for TAF companies, representing a strategic tool for environmental protection and sustainable development and facilitating the spread of sustainable practices.

7 Conclusions and implications

7.1 contribution to the theory.

This paper offers a comprehensive analysis of sustainability trends in the TAF industries, providing different theoretical contributions and extending the results provided by previous research. We adopted bibliometric techniques (i.e. co-occurrence analysis of keywords and abstract terms) to support the content analysis phase of the review methodology and provide quantitative insights offering a holistic understanding of the research field, integrating CSR and CE aspects. Notably, the co-occurrence network of abstract terms revealed three main research clusters: (1) consumer behaviour concerning sustainable clothing consumption, (2) circular economy and corporate social responsibility issues in the TAF industries, and (3) sustainability challenges in the fashion industry. By thoroughly analysing these clusters, we developed a conceptual framework which integrates prior study findings, identifies research gaps, and provides potential directions for future research. Consequently, this study will help researchers and academicians work in this research area to identify unexplored sub-fields, which reflect some potential investigation areas for expanding scientific literature on the topic. Moreover, the proposed taxonomy of CE and CSR drivers and barriers in the fashion industry context could be used by researchers in future investigations as a reference point for conducting empirical studies.

7.2 Contribution to practice

This study offers different opportunities to the public authorities, businesses, and practitioners involved in the path towards sustainability in the TAF context. It provides a broad range of relevant knowledge regarding how sustainability and circularity principles are affecting TAF industries. Such knowledge is essential for managers of TAF industries since it allows them to innovate their business models and prosper in today's competitive environment, thus moving to less polluting production systems and improving company performance. Manufacturing companies, purchasing organisations, and other stakeholders could gain a deeper understanding of the problems, procedures, predictors, barriers, and challenges associated with implementing sustainable practices and developing the skills necessary to reduce environmental impacts and gain competitive advantages.

Furthermore, this study may have political implications. It is acknowledged that the TAF industries represent a major source of environmental pollution. Therefore, the results of this study may inspire governments to promote sustainable initiatives in the TAF industries. For instance, policies implemented by the governments may include incentives for using eco-sustainable and recycled materials or financing for the purchase of green technologies with a lower environmental impact. In addition, for TAF industries to achieve the SDGs, the government must promote cultural changes that move innovation from an individualistic logic bound only to profit maximisation to a collectivistic, communal and open logic based on sustainable development principles.

7.3 Limitations of the study

Although considerable attention was taken to ensure the study process's validity and outcomes, certain limitations must be acknowledged. First, despite we adopted a validation criterion to integrate papers published in different academic databases, we limited our initial search to papers published in the WoS database. Furthermore, we just looked at papers and reviews published in peer-reviewed journals, ignoring other types of publications, including conference proceedings and book chapters. Second, we used VOSviewer software to conduct the co-occurrence analysis of keywords and paper terms, but other statistical analysis and clustering methods can be used, such as coauthorship analysis. Another limitation is regarding the related concept (i.e. zero waste), which is not incorporated within the scope of this research. Further studies can expand the scope to such related concepts/theories.

Data availability

The datasets generated during and/or analysed during the current study are available from the corresponding author upon reasonable request.

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Abbate, S., Centobelli, P., Cerchione, R. et al. Sustainability trends and gaps in the textile, apparel and fashion industries. Environ Dev Sustain 26 , 2837–2864 (2024). https://doi.org/10.1007/s10668-022-02887-2

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Top 11 Fashion Industry Challenges in 2024

With consumer behaviour significantly altered, digital transformation accelerating rapidly, and concern around issues such as sustainability and diversity growing, the industry will face challenges new and old as it continues its recovery.

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There will be plenty of fashion challenges facing the industry in 2024. From economic uncertainty to age-old problems such as sky-high returns, these are issues fashion must contend with.

There will be plenty of fashion challenges facing the industry in 2023. From economic uncertainty to age-old problems such as sky-high returns, these are issues fashion must contend with.

Fashion is in for a difficult year, with forecasts for 2024 predicting a global slowdown as economic pressure grows. 

With consumers tightening their budgets as the cost of living rises, sky-high inflation weighing heavily on brands, and intensified concern around issues such as sustainability, inclusivity, fair pay and working conditions, businesses cannot afford to let their guard down.

To maintain a positive trend in 2024 , businesses must ensure that they are acting in the interest of all stakeholders — investors, employees, customers and society alike — and commit to overcoming issues such as environmental impact, lacking diversity, and distrust while navigating the short-term economic challenges .

3DLOOK’s team of experts answer ‘ what are the current challenges facing the fashion retail industry ? ’, detail the biggest fashion industry challenges businesses face and provide tips on how to overcome them.

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2024’s fashion challenges: What are the current challenges facing the fashion retail industry?

1. the talent deficit.

Fashion’s public image offers jobseekers little encouragement, with concern over environmental and social impact limiting appeal. Half of all professionals in the apparel industry feel as though fashion’s desirability has fallen since 2019, according to Business of Fashion, due to its poor sustainability credentials and reluctance to change.

To attract talent, the apparel industry must increase minimum wage, eliminate unpaid internships, and hire from wider circles. Last year, for instance, LVMH committed to training 25,000 young people from all backgrounds through internships, apprenticeships and permanent opportunities.

Businesses must also appease post-pandemic desires by continuing to offer flexibility. Fashion house Tapestry, for example, will allow employees to continue working from home.

Yet, overall, the intricate landscape of global fashion manufacturing is transforming. Manufacturers, notably those originating from conventional centers such as India, are extending their operational reach into novel territories, including Africa, the Middle East, Turkey, and Latin America. This strategic shift is orchestrated to surmount geographical constraints and harness advantages like reduced labor expenses, access to raw materials, and proximity to consumer markets in Europe, the UK, and the Americas.

The impetus behind this geographical diversification is, in part, a calculated response to the supply chain disruptions precipitated by the pandemic. By dispersing their manufacturing footholds, fashion brands endeavor to diminish reliance on established hubs, heading to nearshoring and reshoring. These avenues promise heightened resilience and expedited turnaround times, aligning with the imperative of adaptability in the face of global challenges.

This same respect must be shown throughout supply chains; with 64% of Millennials shunning employers that demonstrate poor social responsibility, according to Cone Communications, low wages and poor conditions in supplier factories must be addressed.

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AI’s Impact on Fashion Talent

The imminent transformation in manufacturing due to automation, where robots and AI-powered machines are poised to take on tasks ranging from cutting and sewing to finishing and folding. This shift, driven by the pursuit of increased efficiency, accuracy, and cost reduction, offers fashion businesses a means to better meet the demands of a rapidly evolving market.

However, the move towards automation prompts essential questions about the future of the workforce. As machines assume responsibilities traditionally handled by humans, a revised workforce strategy is needed. 

This strategy should prioritize reskilling and upskilling across various roles, spanning designers and technical teams to factory workers and managers. This approach ensures effective collaboration with and utilization of these new technologies. A balanced approach would include both technological advancement and the human element in the industry.

2. The sustainability gap

Fashion ranks among the world’s most polluting industries, contributing 8-10% of global carbon emissions, according to the UN.

With consumers demanding improvements and regulatory action such as New York’s ‘Fashion Sustainability and Social Accountability Act’ adding pressure, 15% of fashion executives cite sustainability as a top-three concern, according to McKinsey.

With 70%+ of emissions resulting from manufacturing, businesses must turn to sustainable materials that are recyclable, regenerative and responsibly sourced. Lululemon has committed to using 75% recycled polyester, which will cut emissions by 45%, for instance.

Adopting on-demand manufacturing models will also be crucial. Slow fashion marketplace MIVE, supported by 3DLOOK’s mobile body measuring tool, has created an emissions-free process where every garment is produced according to the customer’s precise measurements. This eliminates overproduction, minimizes returns, and drastically cuts emissions.

3. Unnecessary textile waste

Despite the significant environmental cost of producing garments, much of it is deposited into a landfill within 12 months. Globally, fashion creates 40 million tons of textile waste annually, according to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, and much of it is unnecessary — despite cotton’s recyclable nature, less than 1% of cotton materials were recycled in 2020.

If fashion is to reduce its volume of waste, it will require closed-loop systems that keep garments in constant circulation. To achieve this will require changes to the way garments are designed, with a focus not only on recyclability but also on the ease of collecting and sorting.

Additionally, 3DLOOK’s Mobile Tailor helps fashion brands reduce carbon emissions linked with the transportation and return of ill-fitting items. Mobile Tailor is a digital embodiment measurement solution curated for retailers looking to provide precise dimensions of their clientele for bespoke or on-demand garment enterprises. This innovative solution facilitates an easy approach to digitizing the capture of measurements, ensuring swift acquisition of accurate and consistent data, whether customers transact in brick-and-mortar establishments or the digital realm. 

Through the integration of Mobile Tailor, brands can furnish a convenient and sustainable shopping sojourn, adeptly catering to consumers’ evolving requirements.

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4. Changing desires

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5. Supply chain bottlenecks

Fashion’s intricate supply chain is suffering from unprecedented disruption, from material scarcities to staffing shortages, logistical delays, and the energy crisis. 

Combined, these issues push up the cost of manufacturing and distribution, impacting the profitability of many apparel brands. According to McKinsey , the worldwide fashion industry is poised to manifest top-line expansion ranging from 2 to 4 percent in 2024. However,  these growth projections entail variations at both regional and country levels.

To minimize disruption, companies must rethink their sourcing strategies and build greater flexibility into their supply chains. Brands should work with suppliers to scale up nearshoring, moving manufacturing operations closer to its customers to avoid material supply bottlenecks, minimize shipping costs, and continue providing near-instant delivery.

6. Spiralling returns

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The pandemic caused a spike in e-commerce shopping rates. However, customers are also returning a larger portion of purchases, with 20.8% of goods now returned on average , according to the National Retail Federation — up 96% since 2020.

Fashion must take action to reverse this trend, with 30-40% of online fashion purchases typically returned, according to PwC.

To reduce fashion e-commerce return rates , brands must analyze their returns data to uncover patterns and learn customer behaviors and characteristics that are likely contributing to the issue. More often than not, retailers will find product clarity is the primary issue, with up to 70% of returns due to poor fit or style. Here, practices such as importing visuals, providing comprehensive sizing information, and implementing features such as live chat to assist customers in finding their right size can help.

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However, innovative retailers are leveraging fit technology, such as 3DLOOK’s YourFit tool, to help customers find products they love that fit right. When using the tool, which relies on a combination of computer vision, 3D matching technologies, and machine learning, retail fashion businesses can offer customers personalized, trustworthy size and fit recommendations and a photorealistic virtual try-on experience from just two photos. Using YourFit, brands have cut return rates by up to 40%.

7. Rising distrust

As much as 60% of fashion’s eco-claims have been classed as ‘unsubstantiated or misleading’ by the Changing Markets Foundation. With fashion among the industries trusted least by consumers, according to Edelman, brands must find ways to back up their sustainability claims.

Demonstrating progress will be particularly important to young consumers, according to Cotton Incorporated, with 43% actively seeking companies with solid sustainability reputations.

To rebuild trust, brands must improve traceability and transparency. Blockchain-enabled product passports can share information with consumers, such as materials used, manufacturing processes, and supplier working conditions. Retailers such as Pangaia are already demonstrating this potential , while political organizations such as the European Union are considering the deployment of the technology at scale in 2024.

Standardization can also help — the Higg Index, for instance, provides a standardized way for brands to measure environmental and social impact across a product’s life cycle.

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8. Diversity and inclusion

Some 42% of fashion professionals say the industry is ‘poor’ at prioritizing diversity and inclusion, according to BoF. 

Fashion’s lack of diversity shows in the products it sells — plus-size makes up just 21% of the US fashion market, according to Coresight Research, despite serving 70% of women. Likewise, 31% of non-binary people feel unable to wear work attire that accurately represents their gender expression.

Building diverse teams and involving employees in key decision-making processes will be vital. Diversity from within the company will help brands to understand the needs of the complex fashion market, and ensure products and marketing truly serves the consumer base.

Brands such as Nordstrom have begun to publish detailed employee demographic information, highlighting underrepresented groups and challenging themselves to improve.

9. Size and fit

Sizing continues to pose a significant problem for fashion consumers, with 62% struggling to find clothing that fits .

A lack of standardization causes confusion among consumers, and vanity sizing — assigning smaller sizes to make consumers feel good — complicates the issue. As shoppers move online, with a lack of dressing room to try on garments , the problem is complicated further.

To overcome the issue, womenswear brand Denim 1822 has created over 100 different jean styles and offers sizes ranging from 00 to 24W. Using 3DLOOK’s YourFit, 1822 Denim scans customers’ bodies to intricately match them to their perfect size and fit. 92% of customers have expressed satisfaction with the recommendations they received, with conversions up and returns down.

10. Building cyber resilience

As big data in fashion retail reaches new heights, so too does the risk of brand-damaging cyber attacks. Retail is the fourth most targeted industry, with the average breach costing retailers $3.28m, according to IBM.

The loss of trust can add millions more to the cost. Likewise, regulatory acts such as California’s Consumer Privacy Act can result in huge fines for targeted businesses.

Brands should be prepared to address one of the most delicate problems in the fashion industry and the appropriate solutions include staying compliant with the latest data privacy rules. Never has it been more important to build cyber resilience in fashion retail. Brands must allocate a greater proportion of their budgets to cybersecurity and, as well as seek support from specialist firms, build in-house cyber competency.

With the threat landscape constantly evolving, brands must actively monitor cyber risk throughout the value chain and consider how data is handled — from collection to use and disposal.

11. Inflation and economic downturn

Faced with record-high inflation, inflated energy costs, constant talk of a cost of living crisis and worrying geopolitical tensions, consumer confidence is rapidly falling. Feeling the effects of the economic downturn and fearing further impact, almost two-thirds of consumers plan to cut back on non-essential purchases in 2024, according to KPMG . In Europe, fashion is where consumers plan to make the biggest spending cuts. 

To protect bottom lines, over 50% of fashion executives plan to increase prices in 2024, according to McKinsey . However, with consumer purchasing power falling, this risks pricing out shoppers and damage loyalty by forcing them to seek more affordable options elsewhere. 

A pivotal focal point for fashion retailers will revolve around the astute administration of expenses and inventories intricately intertwined with strategic pricing methods. Rather, to protect themselves as the global economy recovers, enterprise retailers must focus on reducing avoidable costs throughout the business.

The adoption of sophisticated financial management tools will turn into a strategic advantage. This fiscal dexterity empowers manufacturers to seize the opportunities presented by emerging trends, adeptly pivot in response to market changes, and engender value in an environment where consumer preferences undergo perpetual evolution.

This methodology transcends the conventional realm of cost containment; it delves into adeptly using financial tools, fostering agility in a market characterized by fierce competition and dynamic shifts in consumer choices.

Return loss is one area where brands could make significant savings, as is overproduction ⁠— Using YourFit, retailers can improve their production, planning and distribution processes to ensure belt-tightening consumers have access to products they will love, buy and keep.

Those brands and suppliers that deftly navigate these shifts, harnessing the prowess of contemporary financial and accounting tools to refine their strategies, are poised to endure and flourish. The capability to dynamically calibrate pricing strategies based on market trends and consumer insights, coupled with adept inventory management to curtail wastage and optimize sales, becomes the hallmark of leaders in this fiercely competitive domain.

cyber-resilence-in-fashion

Overcoming 2024’s biggest fashion industry challenges

With industry experts anticipating a tough year for fashion, challenges will be abundant, from long-term struggles such as sustainability and sizing struggles to growing issues such as diversity and distrust. 

However, having survived one of the most difficult periods the fashion industry has ever faced during the pandemic , businesses have proven themselves capable of persevering. By adapting to changing consumer behavior, listening to the concerns of customers and colleagues, and investing in the right solutions and software, apparel industry businesses can overcome the challenges 2024  throws at them.

Get in touch to discover how 3DLOOK’s fit personalization platform can help your brand overcome 2024’s biggest fashion challenges .

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Practices in the textile and apparel industry (TAI) have led to numerous environmental and social problems, which have prompted extensive research on the sustainable development of the textile and apparel industry (SDTAI). This paper presents a comprehensive and quantitative analysis of the status quo in the SDTAI domain using scientometrics. From 1987 to 2019, the Web of Science core collection databases (SCI and SSCI) included 863 journal articles related to SDTAI, and our analysis results were as follows: (1) 60 critical research keywords occur in the knowledge base; (2) four research hotspots were identified; (3) five themes constituted the main knowledge area; and (4) based on the knowledge base, research hotspot, and knowledge domain, the knowledge structure consisted of nine subjects and five systems. This paper proposes a knowledge roadmap that can be helpful for practitioners and academicians to better understand the current sustainable development status and trends in the TAI.

Introduction

Practices in the textile and apparel industry (TAI) have led to numerous environmental and social problems, such as high emissions, high water consumption, high energy consumption, and heavy pollution. In the European Union (EU), 2–10% of current environmental impacts are a result of TAI consumption (Liu et al., 2020 ; Manda et al., 2015 ). In China, the textile industry accounted for 2.6% of the total industrial energy consumption in 2019 (NBSb, 2021 ); further, 1.96 million tons of wastewater, accounting for 10.5% of the total industrial wastewater consumption, were discharged into sewage treatment plants (Liu et al., 2020 ). As the second largest industrial polluter after the oil industry, the apparel industry is a 10% contributor to global carbon emissions (Muthukumarana et al., 2018 ). Additionally, the ineffective disposal of textiles has become an increasingly serious concern in sustainable development (Xu et al., 2019 ). The significant quantities of textile waste entering landfills each year have resulted in severe pollution and chemical hazards. Annual estimates of the amount of textiles landfilled in 2016 in the USA, China, and the EU were 29.3, 14.5, and 9.6 kg per capita, respectively (Bukhari et al., 2018 ). Therefore, to alleviate the adverse impact on the environment and society, the TAI must incorporate sustainable principles.

In recent decades, the sustainable development of the textile and apparel industry (SDTAI) has widely focused on theoretical and industrial modes. Scholars from different disciplines have conducted many studies on SDTAI, involving numerous research fields, such as sustainable consumption behavior (Hong & Kang, 2019 ; Rausch & Kopplin, 2021 ), sustainable production (Alkaya & Demirer, 2014 ; Ozturk et al., 2015 ), ethical apparel (Carey & Cervellon, 2014 ; Choi et al., 2012 ), sustainable design (Fletcher, 2014 ; Niinimaki & Hassi, 2011 ), and sustainable business models (Becker-Leifhold & Iran, 2018 ; Hirscher et al., 2018 ). With thousands of studies in this field, understanding the research focus and status quo is difficult; furthermore, we can easily overlook the research-associated risks and practice improvements in key issues and major areas.

A literature review is an expedient approach to gain insight into a specific field of study (He et al., 2017 ). Several studies have reviewed relevant literature on SDTAI. Such as, Luo et al. ( 2021 ) reviewed the environmental sustainability assessment methods and discussed about their limitations in the TAI; Mukendi et al. ( 2020 ) reviewed research on management perspectives for sustainable fashion and identified social impacts and chances for further research; Islam et al. ( 2021 ) conducted a review of environmentally sustainable practices in a variety of manufacturing processes in the TAI and developed a conceptual framework to provide guidance on sustainable practice; Thorisdottir and Johannsdottir ( 2020 ) reviewed the document published from 2003 to 2019, focusing on the impact of corporate social responsibility on sustainability of fashion industry; Additionally, Jia et al. ( 2020 ) analyzed the drivers, obstacles, practices and metrics of circular economy in the TAI and proposed a conceptual model; Köksal et al. ( 2017 ) provided a review of the social issues in the TAI on sustainable supply chain management; and Tey et al. ( 2018 ) reviewed the key drivers that influence consumers' willingness on paying more when purchasing sustainable clothing products. Although these studies have made significant contributions to SDTAI, they focus particularly on specific aspects, but do not provide a systematic and extensive view. Furthermore, the manual review method is mainly employed in existing reviews, which is prone to bias in terms of limitations in subjective interpretations, the number of articles reviewed, and a lack of producibility (Hammersley, 2001 ; Markoulli et al., 2017 ).

To address the above deficiencies, this study employed scientometrics analysis, a quantitative method aimed at reducing bias caused by manual review, to provide a comprehensive and objective summary of the existing literature. A comprehensive and quantitative review of relevant research will help researchers and industry stakeholders learn about the research status quo and a consideration of future directions. Thus, this study performed a holistic review of relevant studies in the field of SDTAI with scientometric methods. It aims to respectively identify knowledge base (e.g. unstructured key research topics), knowledge hotspots (e.g. unstructured key research topics), and knowledge domains (e.g. structured key research topics) through keyword co-occurrence networks, document co-citation networks, and clustering analysis techniques. We also propose knowledge structures with different saliencies and knowledge roadmaps based on an in-depth analysis of the research results.

This study applied scientometric methods to conduct a comprehensive review of research associated with SDTAI. Scientometrics is referred to the visualization or drawing of knowledge domains (Pollack & Adler, 2015 ), a technique that provides quantitative research for literature reviews. The evolution process and structural relationship can be revealed by scientometric analysis in a specific field in terms of a large-scale academic dataset (Chen et al., 2009 ). In addition, a broader and more diverse set of relevant topics can be studied than with traditional methods (Li et al., 2017 ). It can also improve objectivity and reliability of study results (Zhai et al., 2020 ). Researchers in numerous fields have used scientometric methods to draw and examine the intellectual landscape and research topics (Hood & Wilson, 2001 ; Zhao, 2017 ). The research method included three stages: tool selection, data collection, and data analysis.

Tool selection

Mainstream software tools for scientometrics analysis mainly include VOSViewer, Ucinet, BibExcel, SCIMAT, and CiteSpace, among others (Cobo et al., 2011 ). Among these tools, CiteSpace, developed by Chen Chaomei of Drexel University, is characterized by a more comprehensive integration of analysis methods, mainly involving co-occurrence analysis, evolutionary trend detection, cluster detection, and visual analysis functions. CiteSpace is used extensively in various fields, including management, medicine, environmental science, computer science, information science, and social science (Yang & Meng, 2019 ). Therefore, CiteSpace (5.6.R1) was used in the present research.

Data collection

For this study, the Web of Science Core Collection Database Social Sciences Citation Index (SSCI) and Science Citation Index Expanded (SCIE), by Clarivate Analytics, were selected to obtain bibliographic data, as they consist of the core and influential journal articles in many fields (Pouris & Pouris, 2011 ). Each bibliographic record contains an author list, title, abstract, keywords, and references. Each reference includes the origin type, volume number, first author's name, publication year, and DOI reference. Using the advanced search function of the Web of Science, bibliographic data was retrieved using two keywords, which were (“textile” or “apparel” or “fashion” or “garment” or “clothing”) and (“sustainability” or “sustainable development”). Additionally, journal articles written in English were selected as the literature type. Journal articles published from 1987 to 2019 were selected. Based on the above retrieval criteria, the search obtained 863 records of original research articles.

Data analysis

Specifically, this study mainly adopted keyword co-occurrence analysis, document co-citation analysis, and cluster analysis using the CiteSpace software tool for scientometric analysis. First, the keywords that appeared in the fewest two diverse documents during the same period were obtained by keyword co-occurrence analysis (Luo et al., 2019 ). The critical research focus or directions at a specific time were identified using high-frequency keywords. The keyword extraction method used in this paper is the original keywords of the literature. These high-frequency keywords were considered the knowledge base in a certain research domain. Second, highly cited documents in a certain area were acquired using document co-citation analysis (Small, 1973 ). Documents cited jointly repeatedly in a particular field have potentially greater influence and report much more similar or related concepts when compared with those that are less cited (Chen et al., 2010 ). Knowledge hotspots were obtained through document co-citation analysis. Third, cluster analysis detected clusters using CiteSpace. The literature topics in the same cluster were more similar than those in other clusters. Thus, the knowledge domains were obtained via the clustering analysis, which likely detected significant details concealed in a mass of information and pursued research fronts, as compared to other scientometric approaches (Li et al., 2017 ).

Keyword co-occurrence analysis (knowledge base)

Keywords denote the core content of an article. Thus, keyword analysis can be used to identify critical research topics related to a scientific domain (Zhu & Hua, 2017 ). The keyword co-occurrence network was constituted by 170 nodes and 962 links sourced from the database, as shown in Fig.  1 . Each node represents one keyword, whose magnitude is proportional to the co-occurrence frequencies. Since keywords are closely related to the core of the literature, analyzing similar keywords can be helpful in identifying the core of SDTAI research. The terms are being grouped below, such as sustainability, sustainable development, green, and sustainable fashion can be grouped into one category. As listed in Table 1 , the top 60 terms had 2,081 co-occurrence frequencies, representing up to 92% of all the keyword frequencies.

figure 1

Keyword co-occurrence network for the sustainable development of the textile and apparel industry (SDTAI)

As shown by the co-occurrence frequencies in Table 1 , the following keywords are the most commonly used: sustainability/sustainable development/green/sustainable fashion (414 times), consumption/behavior/consumer/attitude/perception/knowledge/intention/decision making/willingness to pay/consumer behavior/planned behavior/motivation (245 times), textile/fashion/apparel/textile industry/clothing/fashion industry/apparel industry (188 times), management/supply chain/supply chain management (154 times), impact/environmental management/environmental sustainability/climate change/environment/energy (130 times), and corporate social responsibility/social responsibility/csr/responsibility (92 times). Therefore, we can conclude that sustainable supply chain management, sustainable consumer behavior, and corporate social responsibility are the basic components of SDTAI. The remaining 54 primary keywords in Table 1 mainly involved the following four groups.

Performance and model were also important research areas, with occurrence frequencies of 87 and 61, respectively. To allow businesses to concurrently satisfy both sustainability and economic performance, the sustainable business model concept has been utilized in the TAI (Thorisdottir & Johannsdottir, 2019 ). The business model is the structure of an enterprise's mechanism for creating, delivering and capturing value. (Teece, 2010 ). Incorporating sustainability into textile and apparel (TA) business models is essential for recognizing barriers and disturbances to the realization of economic, environmental, or social sustainable development goals (Manninen et al., 2018 ). Some studies focus on diverse methods of introducing sustainability into the business model of the TAI, such as the acquisition of competitive edge, innovation, and model structure. (Sorescu et al., 2011 ; Westerlund, 2013 ). Several studies have concentrated on how to evaluate and report on the sustainability of the TA business model (Park & Kim, 2016 ).

Life cycle assessment (LCA) is a critical topic, with a co-occurrence frequency of 45. LCA is an environmental management and decision support tool for the full life cycle of TA products, including raw material production and acquisition, design, manufacture, transportation, distribution, utilization, and disposal (Yasin et al., 2016 ). LCA provides industry stakeholders with a scientific basis for the assessment and management of environmental sustainability and identifies improvement strategies. Therefore, LCA has been extensively adopted by researchers in TAI (Kazan et al., 2020 ; van der Velden et al., 2014 ; Yacout et al., 2016 ). Most previous related studies have focused on environmental sustainability assessments of textiles and apparel products [e.g., medical textiles (Ponder, 2009 ), bed sheets (De Saxce et al., 2012 ), cotton T-shirts (Kazan et al., 2020 ; Zhang et al., 2015 ), recovered cotton (Esteve-Turrillas & de la Guardia, 2017 ), antibacterial T-shirts (Manda et al., 2015 ), carpets (Sim & Prabhu, 2018 ), and cloth diapers (Hoffmann et al., 2020 ), among others] and various types of natural and chemical fibers (Astudillo et al., 2014 ; Kalliala & Nousiainen, 1999 ; Liu et al., 2021 ; Muthu et al., 2012 ; Qian et al., 2021 ; van der Velden et al., 2014 ; Yacout et al., 2016 ; Yang et al., 2020 ).

Textile products and raw materials are also an important research area, with occurrence frequencies of 37 and 37, respectively. Given the significant environmental and resource challenges associated with textile production, such as waste gas and wastewater emissions, energy consumption, toxic chemicals, and solid waste, most studies address environmental sustainability at various levels, such as the raw material production, fiber production, product manufacturing, and product disposal stages of the textile product life cycle (Kazan et al., 2020 ; Roos et al., 2018 ; Yasin et al., 2018 ; Zhang et al., 2018 ). A number of studies have focused on the environmental impacts of raw material production, such as cotton, organic cotton, acrylic, wool, hemp, nylon, viscose, silk, and polyester (Astudillo et al., 2014 ; Kalliala & Nousiainen, 1999 ; Muthu et al., 2012 ; Yacout et al., 2016 ; Yang et al., 2020 ).

Design (sustainable design) is another critical topic in TAI, with an occurrence frequency of 35. Numerous adverse environmental and social impacts of TA products are a result of production, consumption, and disposal. Design activities have an important impact on the production, consumption, and disposal of TA products across many aspects, such as material selection, energy/water use, processes, and manufacturing, as well as the purchase, use, and disposal of apparel by consumers (Kozlowski et al., 2018 ). To realize SDTAI, designers play an irreplaceable role (Kozlowski et al., 2019 ; Niinimaki & Hassi, 2011 ). In this context, scholars and enterprises increasingly consider the integration of the sustainability concept into TA design process. At present, some studies have developed several sustainable apparel design tools for designers, e.g., considerate design (Black et al., 2012 ), considered take-and-return (Aakko & Koskennurmi-Sivonen, 2013 ), and Cradle to Cradle Apparel Design (Gam et al., 2009 ). Additionally, to achieve sustainability, some strategies have been proposed for designers, such as slow fashion (Štefko & Steffek, 2018 ), longevity design (Connor-Crabb et al., 2016 ; Niinimaki & Hassi, 2011 ), cradle-to-cradle design (Michel & Lee, 2017 ), and upgrade recycling and remanufacturing design (Sara L. C. Han et al., 2017 ).

Document co-citation analysis (knowledge hotspots)

Figure  2 shows a document co-citation network with 193 nodes and 332 links generated from 863 articles, visualized and analyzed by CiteSpace. During the CiteSpace analysis, the timeline from 1987 to 2019 was divided into a set of periods, each of which was two years. In each two-year period, the first 25 most frequently cited studies were selected for co-citation analysis.

figure 2

Document co-citation network for the sustainable development of the textile and apparel industry (SDTAI)

In the network, every node represented the citation status of the article while the links represented the co-citation relations. The larger node size represented frequently cited publication, implying that these papers have substantially contributed to the SDTAI field. According to Fig.  2 , the top 10 most commonly referenced documents from 1987 to 2019, consisting of one book and nine journal articles, are shown in Table 2 .

Based on the top 10 frequently co-cited documents, the most important research topics can be preliminarily verified in the SDTAI domain, including sustainable supply chain management, sustainable consumer behavior, sustainable design, and sustainable business model.

As presented in Fig.  2 and Table 2 , sustainable supply chain management is an important research topic. Using the exploratory case study method, Caniato et al. ( 2012 ) analyzed the motivation, practice, and performance metrics of green supply chain management in companies of different sizes in the TAI. Their research results showed that large firms are more concerned with product and process improvements, as well as related gradual alterations, as compared to small firms. From the perspective of inbound and outbound firms, small firms can fully redesign their supply chain owing to their small size, whereas large firms focus only on certain aspects. Based on the perspectives of stakeholders, de Brito et al. ( 2008 ) discussed the impact that the sustainability movement has on the organization and performance of the apparel retail supply chain, expounded the challenges and conflicts from different dimensions of sustainable development, and investigated how to use internal and external organizations in the European supply chain. Seuring and Mueller ( 2008 ) proposed a conceptual framework for sustainable supply chain management by summarizing existing knowledge systems. At the same time, related research in this field mainly focuses on environmental aspects. However, relatively few studies focus on society and the integration of the three dimensions of sustainability. Based on the theoretical framework of Seuring and Mueller ( 2008 ), Turker and Altuntas ( 2014 ) proposed the status quo of sustainable supply chain management from a conceptual perspective in the TAI. The results of their study showed that raising the overall performance of supply chain sustainability requires these companies not only attach great importance to abiding by the supplier code of conduct, but also to further supervise audit actions, and formulate supplier sustainability standards. These actions can reduce production problems in developing countries.

Based on Fig.  2 , sustainable consumer behavior in the TAI is also a key research topic. Joy et al. ( 2012 ) analyzed the internal disharmony of fast-fashion consumers, who often pay attention to environmental issues, even if they are concerned with consumption patterns that run counter to ecological best practices. Niinimäki ( 2010 ) discussed eco-fashion consumption and consumer purchasing decisions. Their research results showed that moral commitment and values are powerful driving forces for the purchase of eco-clothes. The existing attitude-behavior gap in the eco-fashion field results from designers, manufacturers, and retailers that do not understand the needs and expectations of consumers. Using a literature review and case study approach, Shen ( 2014 ) identified and analyzed sustainable fashion supply chain structures, primarily from a consumer perspective, and presented sustainable operations and lessons at H&M.

As presented in Fig.  2 and Table 2 , sustainable design in the TAI has become increasingly essential. Niinimäki and Hassi ( 2011 ) analyzed consumer interest in design strategies, such as longevity assurance, product satisfaction, product attachment, and emotional satisfaction with the design and service. They proposed a set of design and manufacturing strategies based on these design methods to reduce the impact on the environment during manufacturing and consumption processes. Two versions of sustainable fashion and textiles design proposed by Fletcher ( 2008 ) summarized how design concepts and strategies can be used to shape more sustainable products and promote social change throughout the entire lifecycle of a product. Additionally, these studies have explored design approaches to change the scale and nature of consumption, such as service design, localization, speed, and user engagement.

According to Fig.  2 and Table 2 , the sustainable business model is the main focus area of current research. The TAI requires innovative sustainable business models to reduce its impact on the environment; a number of opportunities are available through the product service system. Armstrong et al. ( 2015 ) explored the positive and negative views of consumers on the characteristics of textiles and apparel product service system to identify obstacles and feasible methods for implementing the product service system model. Their study found that environmental benefits and emotions were the main drivers of positive perceptions. A lapse in service provider confidence and perceived obstacles to accessibility were the main drivers of negative perceptions.

Cluster analysis (knowledge domains)

Document co-citation networks can provide further insight into the SDTAI while cluster analysis allows for the investigation and detection of important subjects, content, and interrelationships (Si et al., 2019 ). CiteSpace can identify clusters of co-cited references, where each cluster corresponds to an underlying theme, a topic, or a line of research. CiteSpace uses three statistical methods for cluster analysis: the log-likelihood ratio (LLR) test, term frequency-inverse document frequency (TF  ∗  IDF), and mutual information (MI) test (Zhao, 2017 ). Therefore, cluster analysis by CiteSpace was used to analyze the documents to obtain the main clusters. The cluster labels are automatically selected from the top-ranked noun phrases for each cluster, and noun phrases are extracted from titles, keywords, and abstracts of the publications.

Based on Fig.  3 and Table 3 , the top five clusters were obtained, with their silhouette score > 0.758, showing the homogeneity of a cluster. The number of documents in each cluster determined the cluster size. The largest cluster, with 29 documents, was cluster #0. The smallest cluster, with 15 documents, was cluster #4.

figure 3

Clusters in the knowledge domain for the sustainable development of the textile and apparel industry (SDTAI)

Cluster #0, i.e., “business performance,” including 29 articles, represented a sustainable business model. The sustainable business model concept has been utilized in the TAI (Nosratabadi et al., 2019 ; Pal & Gander, 2018 ; Todeschini et al., 2017 ; Weissbrod & Bocken, 2017 ). A sustainable business model is a structure used to explore the creation and acquisition of value by a company, aiming to achieve sustainability objectives by adopting active multi-stakeholder management, innovation, and perennial perspectives (Bocken et al., 2014 ; Boons & Lüdeke-Freund, 2013 ). The sustainable business model effectively reduces the harmful environmental and social impacts of business activities by providing solutions that help companies achieve both economic and sustainability goals. Therefore, in response to adverse social and environmental impacts, researchers have attempted to propose instruments and approaches for designing sustainable business models. For example, based on the development of a novel design instrument, known as reDesign canvas, Kozlowski et al. ( 2018 ) proposed a business model canvas containing twelve bricks to ensure that entrepreneurs develop a sustainable TA brand. Hirscher et al. ( 2018 ) proposed transforming users into worth originators to create sustainable business models in TA design and manufacturing by applying do-it-yourself and do-it-together design strategies. Additionally, some studies have discussed various textile and clothing business models, ranging from collaborative consumption models of textile and clothing products (e.g., leasing, sharing, and exchange) (Armstrong et al., 2015 , 2016 ; Becker-Leifhold & Iran, 2018 ; Iran & Schrader, 2017 ; Pal, 2017 ; Strähle & Erhard, 2017 ; Todeschini et al., 2017 ) to used retail (Becker-Leifhold & Iran, 2018 ; Haug & Busch, 2016 ; Strähle & Höhn, 2017 ; Strähle & Klatt, 2017 ) and upcycled goods (Pal, 2017 ).

Cluster #1, i.e., “ethics,” including 26 articles, represented ethics fashion. Ethical fashion refers to a method of designing, buying, and manufacturing apparel that not only maximizes the benefits for people and communities, but also minimizes the impact on the environment via the Ethical Fashion Forum (Haug & Busch, 2016 ). This mode is already a means for apparel corporations to satisfy consumers' desire for sustainability. Apparel companies usually focus on the following aspects of ethical fashion: the environmental sustainability of products and fair trade compliance in terms of procurement and production methods (Barnes & Joergens, 2006 ). Ethical manufacturing and consumer interest in ethical fashion are highly important for many scholars (Niinimäki, 2010 ). Carey and Cervellon ( 2014 ) discussed the attitudes of self-selected fashion-oriented consumers toward ethical fashion by surveying and comparing consumers in Canada, France, and the United Kingdom. Based on comparisons of ethical fashion choices in different countries, Barnes and Joergens ( 2006 ) and Joy et al. ( 2012 ) found that ethical standards can be used in purchasing decisions, which are usually not applied in fashion choices. Choi et al. ( 2012 ) explored consumer concerns, beliefs, and knowledge of ethical fashion. Their results showed that consumer faith in ethical fashion will affect approval for companies that practice sustainable principles.

Cluster #2, i.e., “supply chain management,” included 23 articles. TA consumers widely address environmental and social issues; thus, the translation of sustainability principles into operational practices in the supply chain has become increasingly important (Macchion et al., 2018 ). An effective sustainable supply chain can enhance the brand image of a company and reach a wider range of ethical consumers (Faisal, 2010 ). Therefore, companies should attempt to achieve strong competitiveness in the market (Yang et al., 2010 ). Existing studies related to sustainable supply chain management mainly focus on specific areas, such as new product development, ecological materials production, sustainable production, green distribution, and green retail, among others (Macchion et al., 2018 ; Morana & Seuring, 2011 ; Shen, 2014 ). Some scholars have discussed the driving factors and obstacles in sustainable supply chain management. Diabat et al. ( 2014 ) suggest that certain factors, such as employee participation, stability, and the community economy, are important in implementing sustainable supply chain management. Li et al. ( 2014 ) showed that strengthening the internal governance of enterprises and effective cooperation with stakeholders can aid in the realization of the sustainability of fast fashion supply chain management. Furthermore, fashion brands are currently in the process of identifying best practices based on economic, social, and environmental considerations by integrating environmentally friendly materials, ethical labor practices, renewable energy, and green manufacturing in terms of sustainable strategies within the fashion supply chain (Nayak et al., 2019 ). However, thus far, sustainability issues have been mainly addressed from the social or environmental standpoint; further full and comprehensive studies should be encouraged (Marshall et al., 2015 ).

Cluster #3, i.e., “manufacturing firms,” including 19 articles, was related to sustainable production. The TAI faces several issues, such as climate change, environmental pollution, resource depletion, ecological damage, strict regulatory systems, demand for sustainable textiles, and increased textile consumption. Therefore, improving sustainable production levels is an urgent issue that requires a solution (Desore & Narula, 2018 ; Jeswani et al., 2008 ). To cope with the above-mentioned problems in TA production, many TA factories around the world have successfully developed and implemented sustainable production methods (Alkaya & Demirer, 2014 ). Some researchers have focused on redesigning contamination and waste control systems. For example, environmental techniques (anaerobic biotechnology, membrane-based techniques, and nanofiltration, among others) can be combined to decrease wastewater discharge and increase renewable energy use (Dasgupta et al., 2015 ; dos Santos et al., 2007 ; Ozturk et al., 2015 ; Wenzel & Knudsen, 2005 ; Zabaniotou & Andreou, 2010 ). Moreover, Wenzel and Knudsen ( 2005 ) suggest that water and water-based energy and chemicals can be collected and reused via process integration. Additionally, various studies have focused on redesigning the manufacturing process from an environmental sustainability perspective. For example, some technologies (i.e., retrofitting water softening systems, using drip irrigation flushing, and diverse valves and accessories related to water distribution) have been applied to enterprises (Chico et al., 2013 ; Dasgupta et al., 2015 ; Khandegar & Saroha, 2013 ; Narayanaswamy & Scott, 2001 ; Nieminen et al., 2007 ). Furthermore, some studies have focused on the use of natural fibers, natural dyes, recycled materials, ecological materials, and renewable energy in production (Doty et al., 2016 ; Na & Na, 2015 ; Niinimäki & Hassi, 2011 ; Şen, 2008 ; Sezen, 2013 ; Zabaniotou & Andreou, 2010 ).

Cluster #4, i.e., “consumer behavior,” including 15 articles, was relevant to sustainable consumer behavior. The TAI is consumer-driven. Demand for products is widely influenced by consumer knowledge, values, and perceptions (Butler, 1997 ; Dickson, 2000 ). Thus, there is extensive research examining the barriers and incentives for sustainable consumption in the TAI (Freudenreich & Schaltegger, 2020 ). For instance, raising consumer awareness of apparel sustainability issues can subsequently alter their behavior (Harris et al., 2016 ). Almeida ( 2015 ) and Ma et al. ( 2017 ) examined the effects of eco-labeling and sustainability labeling on the consumer behavior with respect to textiles and apparel. Nam et al. ( 2017 ) addressed the factors that affect consumer purchases of green sportswear. Saricam and Okur ( 2019 ) adopted the Fritzsche model to examine the effect of personal values on the ethical fashion consumption behavior of consumers. Hong and Kang ( 2019 ) investigated how moral philosophy and moral intensity affect consumer willingness to buy sustainable TA products. Some studies have found that fit and style factors also dominate apparel-related decisions (Bly et al., 2015 ). Only a minority of "ethically hardline" consumers regard sustainability criteria as a primary factor in their apparel purchasing decisions (Niinimäki, 2010 ). Additionally, by understanding the attitude-behavior gap, some studies have investigated the obstacles that restrict consumers from buying green apparel (Maloney et al., 2014 ; Phau et al., 2015 ; Wiederhold & Martinez, 2018 ).

By adopting the scientometrics approach, this study analyzed the knowledge base, hotspots, and domains of SDTAI, followed by integrating them into a knowledge roadmap, as shown in Fig.  4 . The knowledge base, domain, and structure formed a knowledge roadmap for the SDTAI. The knowledge base consisted of 60 main keywords obtained from the keyword co-occurrence analysis. The knowledge domains included business performance, ethics, supply chain management, manufacturing firms, and consumer behavior, as identified through cluster analysis. According to the knowledge base, hotspots, and domains, the knowledge structure was developed, involving corporate social responsibility, sustainable business model, LCA, textile products and raw materials, sustainable design, ethics, supply chain management, manufacturing firms, and consumer behavior. These research topics were further grouped into five systems: design, manufacturing, evaluation, management, and marketing. Sustainable design systems for TA involve the use of sustainable design methods and strategies in the product design phase to improve the sustainability performance of TA products throughout their life cycle. TA design aspects have a wide range of environmental and social impacts on the selection, production, purchase, and use of raw materials for products, and have received widespread attention from academia and the practical community. Currently, some scholars have explored the factors influencing the implementation of sustainable design practices for TA. In addition, several scholars have also conducted relevant research on sustainable design methods and strategies for TA.

figure 4

Knowledge roadmap for the sustainable development of the textile and apparel industry (SDTAI)

Sustainable manufacturing systems for TA, on the one hand, focus on improving the environmental sustainability of raw material production and processing processes in the TAI, such as animal feeding, plant cultivation, chemical fiber production and natural fiber production processes. On the other hand, it focuses on improving the environmental sustainability of TA production processes, such as spinning, weaving, dyeing and finishing, sewing, and wastewater waste treatment processes. Currently, some scholars have explored the environmental impacts of various fibers and products such as yarns, textiles and garments, while others focus on sustainable production methods and technologies for the TAI.

The TA sustainability assessment system mainly involves the life cycle environmental impact assessment method, which is an international standardized environmental management and decision support tool that can quantitatively evaluate and manage the environmental impact of TA products throughout their life cycle process, and is widely recognized and applied in the TAI. At present, scholars have mainly carried out the quantification and evaluation of environmental impacts in the fields of various fibers and yarns, textiles and garments, and recycling of textiles and garments.

Sustainable management systems for TA are mainly concerned with various aspects of interaction and management between different stakeholders in the life cycle of TA products. While improving corporate profitability, it can also effectively reduce the negative environmental and social impacts of business activities. For example, by building a sustainable business model, enterprises can achieve the integration of economic and sustainable development; companies also integrate sustainability with supply chain management to build a sustainable supply chain, strengthen internal corporate governance and effective cooperation with stakeholders; in addition, they focus on corporate social responsibility by managing social impact aspects such as human rights and work environment.

Sustainable marketing systems for TA are mainly concerned with influencing consumer behavior during the purchase, use, and disposal of goods and raising consumer awareness of sustainability. Presently, a number of scholars focus on the barriers and stimuli to sustainable consumption, consumers' perceived value, attitudes, intentions and behaviors toward sustainable products. In addition, some scholars focus on an approach to designing, purchasing, and manufacturing apparel-ethical fashion, exploring attitudes, interests, environmental sustainability, and fair trade compliance in sourcing and production methods for ethical fashion products.

Based on the analysis of the knowledge base, knowledge domain, and knowledge structure, the research status quo for the SDTAI can be understood via the knowledge roadmap presented in Fig.  4 . As research on the SDTAI is an expanding and multidisciplinary domain, the knowledge roadmap could change in the future. Nevertheless, this study presents a mapping methodology and knowledge roadmap that can serve as a guide for future changes.

The results from the scientometric analysis can be helpful in providing a comprehensive knowledge framework in the SDTAI domain, thus preventing experts from ignoring broader related topics. Additionally, the SDTAI can be continuously performed to obtain updated knowledge.

Conclusions

Raw material acquisition, processing and manufacturing, distribution and transportation, and consumer use and disposal have generated significant environmental and social impacts. Therefore, many practitioners and scholars have focused on sustainability problems in the TAI. However, efforts to fully review these studies are rare. The objective of this study was to provide a comprehensive and quantitative review in the field of SDTAI using the scientometrics approach. Based on the bibliometric review, we propose a knowledge roadmap for SDTAI, which can review its current research and practice and provide valuable references for academia and industry. Additionally, as the research theories and practices in the field of SDTAI continue to develop and improve, relevant research data should be updated regularly, and the knowledge roadmap of TAI can be further improved in future research.

Specifically, the results of this study showed the following. (1) A total of 60 main keywords for the sustainable development knowledge base in the TAI were identified (Table 1 ). (2) Four research hotspots (sustainable supply chain management, sustainable consumer behavior, sustainable design, and sustainable business model) were identified in the SDTAI domain. (3) The SDTAI knowledge domain was identified, including business performance, ethics, supply chain management, manufacturing firms, and consumer behavior. (4) the knowledge structure consisted of nine subjects (corporate social responsibility, business performance, LCA, textile products and raw materials, sustainable design, ethics, supply chain management, manufacturing firms, and consumer behavior), The nine subjects are further divided into five major systems (design, manufacturing, assessment, management, and marketing).

Based on a review of SDTAI over the past thirty-two years, some possible directions for further investigation are identified. First, existing research has focused on how to guide sustainable consumption behavior of TA consumers, however, there is a lack of focus on whether consumers have the ability to implement sustainable consumption of TA, but the strength of sustainable consumption ability is closely related to achieving sustainable consumption behavior. Therefore, there is a need for future research related to the sustainable consumption ability of TA. Second, although research on influencing factors, methods and strategies, and tools for sustainable design of TA has been carried out, research methods in this area are mostly based on interviews or case studies, and there is a lack of quantitative and empirical research. In addition, there is a lack of quantitative sustainable design tools. Therefore, to promote sustainable design methods to be widely used in practice, the above related aspects should be explored in the future. Thirdly, existing studies have used single or multiple indicators to account for and assess the environmental impacts of TA products based on life cycle theory, and have obtained a large amount of quantitative data on environmental impacts. However, at present, the environmental information of TA supply chains or products is not transparent and traceable, and the quality and reliability of the data are questioned by consumers and society, which poses a challenge to the implementation of sustainable development. With the development of science and technology, modern information technologies such as blockchain, Internet of Things, big data analysis and visualization can be used in the future to achieve transparency, authenticity and traceability of environmental information in the TAI.

Availability of data and materials

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The funding supports to this research are provided by National Key R&D Program of China through project 2019YFB1706300, Shanghai Science and Technology Committee through project 21640770300 and 19DZ2200200 as well as The Fundamental Research Funds for the Central Universities (Grant NO. 2232022G-08).

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College of Fashion and Design, Donghua University, Shanghai, 200051, China

Zhaoshan Wu, Liya Zhou & Xuemei Ding

Key Laboratory of Clothing Design & Technology, Ministry of Education, Donghua University, Shanghai, 200051, China

Xuemei Ding

Shanghai Customs District, Shanghai, 200135, China

Xiongying Wu

School of Fashion Design & Engineering, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, China

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ZW: Data curation, Writing-original draft, Writing-review & editing, Visualization. XD, XW, LZ and LW: Conceptualization, Writing-review & editing, Supervision. All authors read and approved the final manuscript.

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ZW is currently a PhD student at the College of Fashion and Design, Donghua University, Shanghai. His research mainly focuses on Sustainable development in the textile and apparel industry.

LZ is currently an associate Professor at the College of Fashion and Design, Donghua University, Shanghai. Her research interests focus on functional knitted fabric and product design and development as well as Sustainable development in the textile and apparel industry.

XD is currently Professor at the College of Fashion and Design, Donghua University, Shanghai. Her main research interests include Sustainable development in the textile and apparel industry as well as Theory & technology in fabric care.

XW is currently a Professor at the College of Fashion and Design, Donghua University, Shanghai and the Director of the Research Division of Shanghai Customs District. His main research interests include Sustainable development in the textile and apparel industry as well as Theory & technology in testing of textiles and apparel.

LW is currently an associate Professor at the School of Fashion Design & Engineering, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou. His main research interests include working on green and sustainable development of textile and apparel and textile and apparel testing technology and standardization system.

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Wu, Z., Zhou, L., Ding, X. et al. Knowledge roadmap of sustainable development in the textile and apparel industry: a scientometric analysis. Fash Text 9 , 35 (2022). https://doi.org/10.1186/s40691-022-00308-6

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  • Textile and apparel
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117 Awesome Fashion Research Topics: Inspirational Ideas List

fashion research topics

Finding some decent fashion research topics that you can use for your next papers is not easy nowadays. You want something new, something original. Your classmates are probably scouring the Internet as we speak, so why are you still wasting time? Take a look at our long list of 117 exceptional fashion research topics and choose the best one right now. What makes our topics different, you ask? Our experts are constantly updating the list and adding new ideas. This means you will always be able to find an original idea here on this page. We will soon be adding new topics for 2023, so stay tuned!

What Is The Fashion Research Paper?

Keep in mind that finding some great fashion topics to write about is not enough. You need to be able to create a well-organized, concise research paper. To help you do just that, we will show you the 8 main parts of a research paper:

Title page (or cover page) Start with a hook to catch the attention of your readers, then talk a bit about the background of the problem and present your thesis. Literature review. Here, you will need to demonstrate that you have analyzed the literature related to the topic and that there is a gap in knowledge that needs to be addressed. Research In this section, you will explain in great detail all the methods you have used to gather the data. Be as specific as possible. Data analysis. This is the section where you present and analyze the data. Be objective and avoid discussing the results. This is the section where you can discuss your findings and prove how your research results back your thesis. Don’t forget to acknowledge the limitations of your research. Restate your thesis and summarize your research and findings. Show your readers how your findings answer the research questions. References page. This is where you list all the resources you have used to write your research Make sure you don’t miss any.

Now that you know the overall structure of a research paper, it’s time to give you some excellent topics to write about:

Brand New Fashion Research Paper Topics

We will start our list with the brand new fashion research paper topics. These have been added to the list recently, so you can pick one right now knowing that it’s original:

  • Fashion in Ancient Rome
  • The impact of Jane Austen on the world of fashion
  • Swimwear in the 1980s
  • Using bizarre colors in fashion
  • The rise and fall of the jeans
  • Peer pressure related to fashion trends
  • Social networking and fashion
  • The life and work of Giorgio Armani
  • Talk about hippie fashion
  • Fashion in Islamic religions

Interesting Fashion Topics To Write About

If you are looking for something out of the ordinary, we have a long list of interesting fashion topics to write about. Take a look at the following ideas:

  • The rise of the Chanel brand
  • Does price reflect quality?
  • Fashion in Ancient Egypt
  • The sense of fashion in women
  • The link between art and fashion
  • Discuss ethics in fashion
  • The relationship between style and money
  • The role of clothes in your culture
  • Interesting fashion hacks

Fashion Research Topics 2023

In the fashion research topics 2023, you can find topics that were greatly appreciated in 2023. These may or may not be as appreciated in 2024 though:

  • Fashion in developing countries
  • Research smart casual fashion
  • Compare Asian fashion with American fashion
  • Fashion and aesthetics
  • Marketing a new brand of clothes
  • Fashion in vlogging
  • What are cycles in fashion?
  • The rise of the Versace empire
  • Fashion in Paris

Advanced Fashion Topics To Discuss

We also have a list of more advanced fashion topics to discuss. Just keep in mind that the following topics are not easy to write about. But as an option, you can buy a dissertation on any topic.

  • Negative effects of fashion on the environment
  • Forecasting new trends in 2023
  • Celebrities and fashion
  • Negative effects of fashion on the human psychology
  • Influencer marketing of fashion products
  • Fashion from a religious standpoint
  • The place of leather in fashion in 2023
  • Largest fashion shows in the world
  • The importance of Fashion Weeks in Eastern Europe

Fun Research Topics On Fashion

Who said a research paper can’t be fun? Choose one of these fun research topics on fashion and start writing the perfect paper today:

  • Fashion in 1990s media
  • Funny fashion mishaps
  • Men in fashion advertisements/commercials
  • Fashion in medieval times
  • Crossover fashion in 2023
  • Can you start a fashion business?
  • Fashion in the royal family (the UK)
  • Fashion and school uniforms

Important People In Fashion

One of the easiest ways to write a research paper in the field of fashion is to research an icon. Here are some important people in a fashion that you can talk about:

  • Karl Lagerfeld
  • Stella McCartney
  • Audrey Hepburn
  • David Bowie
  • Princess Diana
  • Charles Frederick Worth
  • Harry Styles
  • Kim Taehyung
  • Coco Chanel
  • Designer Paul Poiret

Fashion Research Paper Topics For High School

If you are a high school student, you need some easier topics to write on. Check out these fashion research paper topics for high school and pick the one you like:

  • Fashion in Ancient Egyptian times
  • Michael Jackson’s fashion
  • Fashion in Western Europe
  • Fashion at the workplace
  • Fashion in schools in the UK
  • Discuss fashion in North Korea
  • Luxury products and the human brain
  • Fashion trends and the science that explains them

Captivating Fashion Design Research Paper Topics

In case you want to discuss fashion design, we have a nice list of captivating fashion design research paper topics right here. All these topics are, of course, 100% free to use:

  • Fashion in the LGBTQ community
  • Fashion in Nazi Germany
  • Fun facts about beachwear
  • The role of Versace in fashion
  • New York as a fashion center
  • Effects of Tik-Tok on fashion
  • The origins of ethnic clothing
  • Mixing 3 styles the right way
  • Fashion and sexism in 2023

Fast Fashion Research Paper Topics

Don’t want to spend a lot of time working on that research paper? No problem! Simply choose one of these fast fashion research paper topics:

  • The role of politics in fashion in the United States
  • Talk about wedding ceremony fashion
  • Talk about trends in baby clothing in the United Kingdom
  • The role celebrities play in fashion marketing
  • Talk about 3 iconic fashion characters
  • An in-depth look at fashion in the punk world

Fashion Topics To Research In 2023

It’s time to think about the topics that should work great in 2023. In fact, our experts have already compiled a list of fashion topics to research in 2023:

  • Talk about the notion of “invisible branding” in fashion
  • Research women’s fashion in the 1980s
  • The role played by art in fashion trends
  • Research 3 major fashion companies
  • Talk about the low rise fashion trend
  • Discuss the women’s oversized bomber jackets trend

Fashion And Marketing Research Topics

As you probably know, fashion and marketing go hand in hand. Take a look at our latest and most interesting fashion and marketing research topics right here:

  • Fashion marketing on social media
  • Fashion marketing in the 1960s
  • Effective marketing strategies for luxury products
  • Style vs. functionality in marketing
  • Marketing and fashion cycles
  • The role of fashion in TV commercials

Fashion Ideas For College Students

College students should research topics that are more complex in nature. Don’t worry though; we have more than enough fashion ideas for college students:

  • Research the hoodies under blazers fashion trend
  • Compare Asian and European fashion
  • Research Jane Austen’s style
  • A closer look at minimalist fashion
  • The beginning of the Haute Couture
  • Fashion and the Internet

Unique Ideas Related To Fashion

This list of topics has been revised recently to make sure all ideas are unique. So, if you’re looking for unique ideas related to fashion, you have definitely arrived at the right place:

  • Analyze the cropped cardigans trend
  • Research the plus-size fashion industry in Indonesia
  • The impact of feminism on fashion
  • Social issues caused by fashion
  • Fashion and cheap labor
  • Effects of religion on fashion

Easy Fashion Essay Topics

If you want to make sure you ace that research paper, you should find an easy topic to talk about. Take a look at these easy fashion essay topics and pick one today:

  • Discuss the notion of “color blocking”
  • Fashion trends during World War II
  • The evolution of men’s suits over the last 100 years
  • Fashion and child labor
  • What is organic clothing?
  • Talk about the rise of wig fashion

Creative Fashion Research Questions

Professors really appreciate creativity, so you should definitely go through this list of creative fashion research questions:

  • A closer look at the puff sleeves trend
  • The Kardashian family’s impact on fashion
  • How did Chanel rise to fame?
  • Sustainability in the fashion industry
  • Fashion and body types
  • Interesting fashion trends in Dubai
  • Talk about fashion in the armed forces

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Articles on Fashion industry

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fashion industry issues research topics

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Fashion Communication Research. A Way Ahead

Click here to download the document.

Fashion Communication Research. A way ahead

“FACTUM19—Fashion Communication: between tradition and future digital developments”

Monte Verità, Ascona (Switzerland), 21-26 July 2019

Abstract This document, designed and written during the conference FACTUM19 , has two main goals: to help consolidate Fashion Communication as an academic field, and to support an international and interdisciplinary network of scholars in the area, whose collaboration may lead to a larger body of research and, in turn, to further academic recognition. To do so, it outlines main research topics, approaches and challenges, as well as related industry issues and learning dimensions.

Keywords:  Fashion Communication, Fashion, Digital Fashion, Communication Research

Fashion is a dynamic field in constant evolution. It impacts people and businesses, but also culture, art, and the whole ecosystem, embracing beauty, gastronomy, decoration, home wear, music and tourism… In a word – lifestyles. Fashion is (also) communication: the way we dress is a major channel through which we express ourselves and communicate our identity to others. Moreover, Fashion Communication gathers many communication professionals and fields, e.g.: journalism, corporate communication, internal communication, external communication and marketing, public relations, crisis communication, social media, and many others. The digital transformation is deeply impacting fashion and its communication – Fashion media logic – as it is impacting the way we live, think, and collaborate. Digital fashion is pushing fashion brands to become also media companies, hence to further stress their communication role. However, research on Fashion Communication has not received major attention by communication scholars and institutions, and those studying it do not form yet a fully recognizable research community…

1. How this document has been designed and developed In the framework of “ FACTUM19 — Fashion Communication Conference” , an ad-hoc workshop has been held and organized as follows. A first meeting took place on July 22 nd , 2019. Ideas have been crowdsourced from all participants (about twenty-five) on four main dimensions: (a) research topics; (b) research methods and limitations; (c) collaborations with the industry; and (d) teaching/learning activities. Later on, groups were set-up and worked to organize the proposed ideas, and to ensure consistency and completeness of the resulting landscape. Every group had a rapporteur, in charge of leading the conversation and of documenting its results. On July 25 th , a second meeting was held. Rapporteurs presented their group a first draft document, and improved it thanks to group feedback. Their activity leveraged also on a preparatory work, which analyzed papers on the topic presented at relevant events or in dedicated journal issues tackling Fashion Communication. The FACTUM19 Conference Proceedings have been also analyzed: most frequent keywords were studied to ensure a wide coverage of current studies and research trends. The document has been further improved and refined by rapporteurs. Finally, participants have been sent the final version and invited to sign it.

2. Results Hereafter the results, organized according to the four above-listed main areas.

2.1 Key research topics and emerging trends Due to the complexity of the studied object – the concerned human experiences and industry practices – the topics studied in Fashion Communication involve many disciplines. The following tracks are suggested as crucial to be covered by the Fashion Communication research community. Essentials in communication and media. Among them: communication practices and strategies concerning information sharing, the relationships with all involved stakeholders, with different generations and cultures. Regarding communication channels, it is still necessary to analyze their differences and relationships, and how they are being re-negotiated under the digital transformation. It is also interesting to focus on: media power, media education, media hybridization and the role of fashion journalism within journalism at large. Further focus should be on the characteristics of the fashion language, which involves all our senses, using textual elements as well as images, videos, sounds. These multimedia practices have been allowed and promoted by the emergence of digital communication. Digital Fashion Communication. In the digital age, communication and marketing have become even more interrelated. Therefore, this track analyzes both aspects. It is important to underline that the digital fashion ecosystem is in constant evolution, and multi/cross/omni channel processes are to be analyzed. Social media platforms have been established as major channels to connect the different fashion stakeholders. From a communication perspective, it is needed to understand message creation, community and network dynamics, the power of electronic word-of-mouth, relation and impact of traditional and emerging actors – such as celebrities, opinion leaders, bloggers and digital influencers. Online communication is also a way to develop digital marketing strategies, involving advertising, analytics, artificial intelligence, mobile apps, instore and eCommerce technologies, personalization and localization practices, chatbots, augmented and virtual reality, recommending technologies and many others. Also, human-computer interactions studies are needed here, when it comes to fashion-related applications, focused on user experiences and usage practices. Fashion users/consumers. Fashion Communication constantly influences and impacts on fashion users and consumers. In this way, research concerning perception and self-perception, motivation, attitude, behavior, satisfaction, and loyalty are still needed, keeping into account the digital transformation. To analyze the messages and communication exchanges that occur during a customer’s journey is also crucial, because it has an impact on the buying behavior and on brands – equity, experience, identification, relationship. Fashion brands. The way each brand communicates its identity, values and purpose is a key issue for researchers as well as for practitioners. Many fashion brands aim to communicate their heritage either intangible or tangible, as it helps to consolidate their reputation and prestige. The path companies choose to increase and engage their audience is often pursued through an attractive storytelling and the promotion of new perspectives and imaginaries, which need to be carefully studied. New developments in this field are having more and more importance, as brands are creating their own communication products like fashion shows, fashion films, brand magazines, etc. In the same way, fashion brands also communicate through their product, packaging and visual merchandising. The co-creation of brand identity by fashion companies and user-generated contents is a major topic of research, which pushes also to address the issues of sustainability and ethics, which are more and more at the center of fashion-related discourses. Sustainability and ethics. Fashion Communication is being affected by a revolution related to sustainability and ethical issues, whose communication deserves a major research attention, also for its direct impact on brand reputation. Ethical behaviors include the need to consider environmental aspects, such as climate change, and social aspects – morality, exploitation, cultural appropriation, globalization… In fact, several times the (problematic) relations between fashion and sustainability and ethics emerge in crises – indicating that crisis communication has to be taken particularly into consideration by researchers. In addition, studying legal aspects, privacy and copyright issues that influence Fashion Communication is essential. Culture and Identity. Fashion Communication is directly impacted by many cultural and identity aspects. The emerging interest about fashion by museums and other main cultural players is a further incentive for Fashion Communication researchers to understand the importance of their studied domain not only on the ephemeral market of everyday marketing and communication messages, but also on the major long-term symbolic exchanges that shape cultures and societies. Among the main issues to be researched: intercultural communications, territory as inspiration for fashion industry, fashion and cultural heritage, cultural appropriation, culture in the use of social media, identity of marginalized people. Additionally, more research attention is needed when it comes to the Global South and less affluent societies and communities.

2.2 Research methods and their limitations As stressed in the Foreword, methodology in the Fashion Communication field should promote interdisciplinarity, through theoretical and empirical works. Research cannot be limited to a fashion object, brand, or discourse: it should aim to deal with complex and evolving systems through contextual analysis. Case studies are crucial to understand the dynamics of Fashion Communication, to ground and validate theoretical frameworks, to allow for comparisons at different levels: local/global, personal/collective, short/long term. Case study analysis needs to be based on a clear methodology and fundamental references to collect and analyze data. Qualitative methods – e.g.: interviews, focus groups, ethnographic research, passive and active observations, textual and semiotic analysis – do constantly interact with quantitative methods – e.g.: questionnaires, statistical analyses, digital analytics. These methods should take into consideration the new findings in each field, e.g.: automatic image recognition, eye tracking and other biometrical data, automatic language processing, sentiment and argumentation analysis, neurosciences, and so on. Research processes need to be supported by consistent publications on distinct academic publication outlets, sometimes still missing in this domain. The sharing, ideally using open content licenses, of research outcomes and data is crucial to improve the research in this field and to promote wider collaborations and understanding of research results. Innovation in research might rise from the creation of labs, physical or virtual, gathering together thought leaders from academy, industry, public institutions, culture, science, as well as from other domains. Finally, research in Fashion Communication from the definition of research hypothesis, through the collection and analysis of qualitative and quantitative data, till the dissemination of its results, should be built on and follow clear and explicit ethical principles.

2.3 Collaborations between research and industry Scholars in Fashion Communication interested in collaborating with the industry – fashion firms and media – face a number of issues, underscored by what might be a fundamental misunderstanding between both parties. To address those issues, it seems necessary to (i) further define an industry/field in constant change; (ii) clarify the role of communication at different levels in the fashion domain; (iii) “help” companies understand the importance of academic research; (vi) identify companies and organizations interested in such research; and (v) facilitate the negotiation of (less restrictive) Non-Disclosure Agreements. Collaboration in Fashion Communication research should entail a mutually beneficial strategy: academia should seek to further embed itself into the industry as well as to draw practitioners into its world. This strategy should be implemented via research and development activities, industry-relevant educational programs, and cross-disciplinary initiatives. It is to be stressed that ethical issues should be constantly considered. Among them, research freedom, privacy and authorization by involved studied persons, careful treatment of data sources, and so on.

2.4 Research and learning/teaching practices While developing teaching and learning activities in Fashion Communication, the use of critical and reflective methodologies is recommended, as well as a long-term approach, which situates the current digital communication environment within the history of Fashion Communication, its practices and its media. Higher education requires a medium- or long-term approach, hence it is not enough to follow current industry needs, we need to even anticipate them: to do so, extensive and advanced research is a necessary pre-requisite for adequate curriculum and course planning. In order to be able to communicate fashion, learners should take into consideration every stakeholder: we need to “walk the talk” and be able to listen and to recognize all professional roles in their authenticity. It is important to create and develop communities for Fashion Communication teachers and learners, also through digital social networks, so to help them networking and learning from each other. While teaching relevant topics, it is necessary to promote soft skills, which students need to have in order to enter and successfully remain in the job market. Those are creative and critical thinking, writing skills, public speaking, visual literacy, as well as (inter)cultural sensitivity and competency. When it comes to the modality of teaching and learning, collaborative and creative exercises are recommended, along with group projects, which might help learners to enhance their critical thinking abilities as well as to improve their communication skills. Moreover, projects that involve, together with learners of fashion communication, learners of other related domains (e.g.: fashion design, journalism, management, IT, etc.) can be useful to make them better understand the reasoning of other professionals and the approach by different involved disciplines. Finally, learning and teaching Fashion Communication can benefit from emerging technological solutions, from blended learning to the use of online tutorials and augmented reality applications, up to the creation of MOOCs (Massive Open Online Courses) on the topics related to Fashion Communication, which might benefit higher education students as well as professionals already in the field.

3. Conclusions This document, quasi a Monte Verità Manifesto on Fashion Communication Research , is the product of the fruitful cooperation among colleagues from different research and cultural backgrounds, yet sharing common ideas and beliefs on the current state and challenges to further establish a research community on Fashion Communication. Its contents are incomplete and require constant refinement and updates, as needed by such an evolving and exciting research area. It is not intended to indicate limits or to draw boundaries. Rather, it aims to mark a step, as we believe, in the right direction in order to support an international and interdisciplinary network of scholars in this field, and to get further academic visibility.

Monte Verità (Ascona, Switzerland), July 2019

Rapporteurs (in alphabetical order): Lorenzo Cantoni (USI – Università della Svizzera italiana, Lugano, Switzerland), Francesca Cominelli (Université Paris 1 Panthéon-Sorbonne, Paris, France), Nadzeya Kalbaska (USI), Michela Ornati (USI), Teresa Sádaba (ISEM Fashion Business School, Madrid, Spain), Patricia SanMiguel (ISEM)

Other signatories who participated in FACTUM19 (in alphabetical order): Stefano Airoldi (STA Scuola Tecnici Abbigliamento, Lugano, Switzerland), Romana Andò (Sapienza University, Rome, Italy),  Dimple Bahl (National Institute of Fashion Technology, New Delhi, India), Silvia Blas Riesgo (University of Navarra, Pamplona, Spain), Dorrit Bøilerehauge (Aarhus University, Aarhus, Denmark),  Elisa Borboni (Politecnico di Milano, Milano, Italy), Simonetta Buffo (Università Cattolica del Sacro Cuore, Milano, Italy), Daniela Candeloro (Sapienza University, Rome, Italy), Zhimin Chen (Manchester Metropolitan University, Manchester, UK), Kyung-Hee Choi (Hansung University, Seoul, South Korea), Raluca Creangă (University of Bucharest, Bucharest, Romania), Tiago de Sousa Araújo (Hongik University, Seoul, South Korea), Rossana Gaddi (Politecnico di Milano, Milano, Italy), David Hall (Hongik University, Seoul, South Korea), Hilde Heim (Queensland University of Technology, Brisbane, Australia), Girija Jha (National Institute of Fashion Technology, New Delhi, India), Olga Karamalak (National Research University Higher School of Economics, Moscow, Russia), Katrien Laenen (KU Leuven, Leuven, Belgium), Myles Ethan Lascity (Southern Methodist University, Dallas, Texas, USA), Lisa D. Lenoir (University of Missouri, Columbia, USA), Caroline Lloyd (University of Northampton, Northampton, UK), Anna Fabienne Makhoul (Johannes Gutenberg University, Mainz, Germany), Manish Nangia (National Institute of Fashion Technology, New Delhi, India), Veronica Neri (Università di Pisa, Pisa, Italy), Tekila Harley Nobile (USI, Lugano, Switzerland), Alice Noris (USI, Lugano, Switzerland), Puspita Ayu Permatasari (USI, Lugano, Switzerland), Katharina Sand (Parsons Paris / The New School, Paris, France), Friedemann Schaber (University of Northampton, Northampton, UK), Thomaï Serdari (Leonard N. Stern School of Business, New York University, New York, USA), Jochen Strähle (Reutlingen University, Reutlingen, Germany), Cecilia Winterhalter (Accademia Costume & Moda, Roma, Italia)

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fashion industry issues research topics

The Most Intriguing Fashion Research Topics and Ideas for 2023

A re you searching for inspiration to write your fashion research paper in 2023? This article can assist you with that! It examines the most interesting and up-to-date fashion research topics, providing ideas on what to cover. Additionally, we’ll discuss some of the hottest themes this year and why studying fashion is essential in modern society.

Top Fashion Research Ideas for 2023

The fashion industry is always evolving, so it’s no surprise that there are plenty of fascinating research topics to dive into. If you’re looking to stay ahead of the curve, here are some hot topics for the upcoming year.

  • How sustainable fashion impacts our planet. With sustainability on everyone’s mind these days, exploring eco-friendly practices in fashion could be a game changer. The study will explore various aspects, such as using organic materials and waste reduction techniques. Also, you can research their impact on protecting our environment while discovering ways to promote them further.
  • The role of technology in the fashion industry. The fashion industry is being transformed by technology. 3D printing, AI-driven design and other advancements are changing how we create and buy clothes. Explore these innovations to see their pros and cons. For instance, you may delve into tech’s role in optimizing supply chains or predicting trends based on consumer info.
  • The influence of social media on fashion trends. Social media, such as Instagram and TikTok, has revolutionized fashion. It connects designers with influencers and consumers in unprecedented ways. The effects of social media on shaping the industry are worth investigating – how it impacts clothing styles, beauty trends, and body image perceptions both positively or negatively.
  • Gender-neutral fashion. As society becomes more diverse and inclusive, gender-neutral fashion has become a hot topic. The exploration of how designers create clothing that isn’t specific to one sex or another is worthy of attention. You may research whether this approach will increase sales while promoting equality in the industry.

Don’t fret if you feel daunted by the idea of delving into these captivating research topics. There’s a solution: purchase research papers online and get ahead of the game. With fashion expanding at an astonishing pace, availing yourself of well-crafted academic work can give you valuable perspectives while also saving time.

fashion industry issues research topics

Why Fashion is So Important?

Fashion is much more than just clothing and accessories. It’s an art form, a means of expression, and a reflection of our culture and society. Fashion impacts all aspects of life; it can influence how we feel about ourselves or others, create social status distinctions or help us fit in with specific groups. Fashion also plays a vital role in the economy as well. The fashion industry generated over 2 trillion dollars globally in revenue last year alone. This includes everything from retail sales to textile production-related services such as marketing campaigns for various brands worldwide. Finally, fashion has become vital when discussing topics involving identity politics, like race or gender. They have been essential components of modern-day cultural attitudes. Fashion can help break down stereotypes and promote acceptance. It allows us to express ourselves in unique ways while also promoting inclusivity.

Tips on How to Choose Interesting Research Paper Topics about Fashion

While crafting an interesting research paper about fashion can be a daunting task, selecting the right topic is half the battle. Here are some tips to help you choose your subject wisely.

  • Identify Your Interests. To choose a compelling and pertinent research paper topic about fashion, it’s crucial to identify your interests within the industry. Consider which aspects of fashion intrigue you the most, such as sustainability, technology or cultural influences. By choosing subject matter that genuinely fascinates you will enjoy the research process more and be motivated throughout.
  • Stay Current with Trends. To find unique and relevant ideas, try staying current with fashion trends. This can include attending industry events or following top-rated designers online via social media platforms like Twitter or Instagram.
  • Consider the Scope. When picking a topic for your paper, it’s important to consider the scope of your research. A broad topic may be too difficult to cover comprehensively, while a narrow one can limit available resources and information. Aim for balance; choose a subject matter that allows you to delve into it but is still manageable.
  • Assess Available Resources. Certainly, you need to evaluate the resources available to you. Ensure that your chosen topic has sufficient literature and data accessible for research purposes. Consider consulting with librarians or experts in the field if needed.
  • Consult Your Instructor or Advisor. Don’t forget to consult with your instructor or advisor when choosing a topic. They may have suggestions based on their expertise and can help guide you towards relevant resources for research.

These tips will help you select a fascinating and doable research topic about fashion. With the right ideas, thorough research and quality writing, your paper can be thought-provoking while providing new perspectives on the industry’s trends for 2023!

In 2023, there are plenty of intriguing research topics within the fashion industry to explore. It’s crucial to stay up-to-date on current trends when selecting a topic that intrigues you. Along with your personal interests, examining available resources and researching diligently is necessary for finding an achievable focus. Getting advice from experts can also help open new perspectives about this ever-evolving field.

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The Excerpt podcast: The ethics of fast fashion should give all of us pause

fashion industry issues research topics

On a special episode (first released on January 18, 2024) of The Excerpt podcast: The term “fast fashion” brings to mind factories spitting out enormous volumes of clothing using cheap fabric and sweatshop labor. All so that we, the consumers, can sport the latest new looks at low prices. But the industry has become a boiling cauldron of questionable ethics. From mafia style business practices to sweatshop labor, not to even mention the environmental costs. All of which begs the question: should fast fashion even exist? Elizabeth Segran, a senior staff writer at Fast Company, joins The Excerpt to dig into these issues.

Hit play on the player below to hear the podcast and follow along with the transcript beneath it.  This transcript was automatically generated, and then edited for clarity in its current form. There may be some differences between the audio and the text.

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Dana Taylor:

Hello and welcome to The Excerpt. I'm Dana Taylor. Today is Thursday, January 18th, 2024, and this is a special episode of The Excerpt.

The term fast fashion brings to mind factories spitting out enormous volumes of clothing using cheap fabric and sweatshop labor. Also, that we, the consumers can support the latest new looks at low prices, but the industry has become a boiling cauldron of questionable ethics. First are the wars brewing between some of fast fashion's biggest purveyors, Temu and Shein. Designers aren't happy either with several recently filing a lawsuit against Shein for stealing their designs. Meanwhile, consumers are growing increasingly concerned about the environmental costs, all of which begs the question, should fast fashion even exist.

I'm joined now by Elizabeth Segran, a senior staff writer at Fast Company, to dig into these issues. Thanks for being on The Excerpt, Elizabeth.

Elizabeth Segran:

Thank you so much for having me.

So let's start by setting the stage here. How long has fast fashion been around and how fast is fast? What's the process and who spits it out the fastest?

Okay. Well, if we want to go to the beginning of fast fashion, it started in the 1980s with pioneering brands like H&M and Zara. And at the time, they had this radical concept, which was that they were going to take the latest fashions that came off the runways and make them at very low prices in factories that were overseas and used cheap labor and spit them out really quickly, which at the time meant about six months after they hit the runway and make these products available to everyday consumers.

And this was a really awesome idea at the time because it seemed like it would democratize fashion, right? It would take it out of the hands of those who could afford designer labels and allow everybody to dress in the latest styles. But the problem is that it almost worked too well, and the entire industry realized that making inexpensive, very fashion-forward looks was the way that they were going to make a lot of money. And so, over the next couple of decades, a lot of brands decided that they were going to copy this fast fashion model, and this accelerated and accelerated until the point that we are at right now where there are these ultra fast fashion brands coming out of China that are doing things at a higher speed and a higher volume than anything we've ever seen before.

Okay, let's dig into the lawsuits. Can you talk about the back and forth lawsuits between fast fashion rivals, Temu and Shein, and what they're accusing each other of?

These Chinese companies use a network of factories in China that are able to turn clothing around at an extremely fast pace. And what's going on is that Shein basically has a lock on a lot of these factories and has contracts with a lot of these factories in order for it to continue turning out clothes at the remarkable speed that it's working at. And Temu, its biggest competitor, is saying that Shein is using mafia-like tactics to basically ensure that no other companies can come in and use those same factories.

Well, designers are saying that fast fashion has essentially been stealing their designs, the lawsuit list copyright infringement alongside racketeering. What's the story here?

Shein produces 10,000 new styles every single day. I mean, that is remarkable. So if you go onto the Shein website on any given day, there are going to be thousands and thousands of new styles. And the way that they do that is that they use algorithms to search on social media for what the latest looks are. And a lot of the time they will find looks that are made by independent designers and quickly make copies of them. And so there have been many lawsuits filed by independent designers who are trying to make a living with their designs. And Shein is just nakedly stealing and copying those designs almost exactly. And so there are several lawsuits that are going on now asking Shein to stop this behavior. And at the same time, Shein is doing this charm offensive, and what it's doing is it's trying to partner with lots of independent designers to say, "Hey, why don't you come and partner with us and we'll pay you to work for us." So it's doing this in a way to push back against this enormous wave of lawsuits that's coming their way.

Well, and it's not just Shein and Temu whose practices are under the microscope. Fast fashion retailers, you mentioned H&M and Zara, they've previously been accused of greenwashing. What is greenwashing and is this still going on?

Greenwashing is basically communicating to the public and marketing that you are using sustainable practices. The real problem is the sheer volume of products that they're pumping out into the market and selling at such low prices that it is hard to understand how those products can be made sustainably and respecting human labor. And so I think ultimately we see these little efforts to try and talk about their sustainability practices as actually obscuring the larger problem here, which is overproduction, which is leading to overconsumption, which is the real problem.

Elizabeth, I want to circle back to the labor practices and dig in on that a little bit more of these fast fashion companies. What do we know about their labor practices and what don't we know?

We know quite a lot. And actually, we know a lot because labor activists have been studying the fashion industry for decades. And we know that in order to make clothes that are this cheap, we're talking T-shirts that cost $3 and dresses that cost $10, something's got to give, and usually that means workers' rights. So in a lot of these factories that Shein and Temu uses in China, there have been reports of workers talking about very poor working conditions, not being able to go to the bathroom when they need to go to the bathroom, having to work eight to 10 hours straight. It's really hard to work 10 hours at a sewing machine without making a mistake that could potentially cost you a finger, for instance. Many of these workers are not paid a living wage. Another really disturbing thing is that cotton that Shein uses has been tied to the Xinjiang region of China where we know that there is a lot of forced labor happening. Fast fashion is not cheap. A lot of humans suffer in order for the prices to be this low.

Well, sustainability and waste are also two issues that have daubed the fashion industry since the beginning. What are you hearing from consumers about how they think about fast fashion in this context?

There's been a movement called the Slow Fashion Movement. And so, increasingly, there are consumers who are really alarmed about the impact that the fast fashion industry is having on the planet. We know that it produces between four to 8% of all climate emissions, so it's accelerating climate change. We know that it pollutes the waters. We know that it has an impact on human welfare. And so consumers are trying to rise up and use different consumer behaviors to signal to the market that we need change. So this means buying fewer items, wearing them for longer. There's a growing number of influencers on social media who are trying to not buy anything this year just to show that that can be done.

Well, I did want to ask about these resale companies in particular. Obviously they want to slow down the output of new clothing items because of the impact on their business. How are they targeting fast fashion companies and are their efforts to influence consumers gaining any traction?

Yes. An interesting development over the last couple of years has been that resale companies are directly taking aim at fast fashion in their marketing and in their advertising. So for instance, when Shein did a pop-up in San Francisco, which is where thredUP is based, thredUP asked all of their customers to boycott Shein. This was a really bold thing to do for one company to directly go after another company. But they thought that this was a really important opportunity for them to educate their customers about why fast fashion is so problematic. And also, it was a little self-serving because they were saying, instead of buying cheap fast fashion, why not get something secondhand?

Another thing that we've seen is the brand Vestier Collective, which sells slightly higher end secondhand products. They have put an all out ban on fast fashion brands on their platform. So they've said that you can't sell products on their platform from Shein, but they've also said that there are lots of other brands like Gap and Abercrombie that are producing so many clothes at such inexpensive prices that they also count as fast fashion. So they have gone after 30 different companies that they're saying are effectively fast fashion.

Well, you recently wrote that the Biden administration to create a new cabinet position, a fashion czar. What would that person do and why do you think that it's needed?

I think it's so interesting that governments around the world have ministers and cabinet positions that deal with industries that are very polluting, like the automotive industry and like the oil and gas industry and yet we don't think of fashion as equally damaging or as problematic. And the truth is that the fashion industry is a major polluter in the world, and it is actively accelerating our planet towards a climate catastrophe. We are beginning to see around the world legislation bubbling up that would curb the impact of the fast fashion industry. And my argument was that the Biden administration really ought to appoint a fashion czar the way that we have a climate czar and the way that we have somebody who's overseeing the automotive industry, somebody who can help push forward this legislative agenda and help make these laws that will curb the impact of the fashion industry and also protect workers.

Finally, Elizabeth, and we've dug into a lot of the various issues surrounding fast fashion, pretty much everything we've touched on today, the lawsuits, the labor practices, the waste has to do with the industry's ethical practices. The EU has been trying to rein in fast fashion with a ban passed late last year on destroying unsold clothing. What do you think? Are consumers, American consumers ready for an all out ban on fast fashion?

I really do think that consumers want this legislation, and that's because a lot of the consumers that are shopping from fast fashion brands are young consumers. And we know from polling and from data that young consumers are really worried about the state of the planet. But really, it's not the consumer's responsibility to curb their negative behavior. These companies need to be held to account by the government and by laws that curb the negative impact that they're causing on the planet. And I think that once these laws go into effect, consumers will be supportive of all of that because they want to live in a planet that is healthy and that is not hurtling towards disaster.

Elizabeth, thank you so much for joining us on The Excerpt.

Thank you so much, Dana. This was lovely.

Thanks to our senior producer Shannon Rae Green for production assistance. Our executive producer is Laura Beatty. Let us know what you think of this episode by sending a note to [email protected]. Thanks for listening. I'm Dana Taylor. Taylor Wilson will be back tomorrow morning with another episode of The Excerpt.

McKinsey insurance leadership on 2024 trends and innovations

The insurance industry is going through changes, many of which are fueled by developments in AI. In this episode of the McKinsey on Insurance podcast, Jörg Mußhoff and Fritz Nauck, McKinsey senior partners and coleaders of the Insurance Practice, sat down for a discussion at the 2023 InsureTech Connect conference in Las Vegas. They talked about the trends and innovations they’re seeing in Europe and North America as well as globally, including a push for productivity, a focus on distribution and the end customer, the rearrangement of operating models and approaches to data, and the role of AI and generative AI (gen AI) across these themes. The following transcript has been edited for clarity.

Fritz Nauck: It’s an interesting time in the industry. In North America as well as in Asia, I’m seeing the industry holding its own against a rapidly evolving risk landscape and volatility. There are climate change catastrophes and convective storms that are unparalleled, it’s a tricky time geopolitically, and cyber risks continue to be on the minds of a lot of executives. Then there are inflationary pressures, the balance sheet impacts of which have been significant for life insurers as they look for capital release. What trends do you see in the industry in Europe as well as globally?

Jörg Mußhoff: We’re seeing a lot of platform tech–related plays, which are amazing. We’re seeing various players in the AI space bringing true innovation and making a difference. We see AI in software and in support activity, thinking about call centers and others. The current mood is about reinventing, and new players and incumbents are working jointly on it. I think this collaborative approach will be game changing.

Quite a few players along the value chain—both those focused on AI and those working in pricing, claims, and so on—are actually already very successful. Some are making margins of 30 or 40 percent.

Fritz Nauck: Yesterday, you and I were talking about the themes we see for 2024. You mentioned a focus on expense and efficiency as well as technology, including AI. What do you see carriers thinking about in these two areas?

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Jörg Mußhoff: First, I think we are going to see players embarking on a step change in terms of productivity. And this relates to what we just described about supporting players along the value chain. Our frameworks and analyses show that over the next years, up to 50 percent of the workforce might be radically changed, and there is room for a lot of productivity improvements. A lot of players are leveraging technology, including AI and gen AI, to make a step change along the value chain. And this is not unique to insurance.

The other theme in Europe and beyond is a strong focus on distribution and the end customer. Drastic changes in customer segments are a starting point of that. So we see a lot of movement in some areas with customers who are more affluent, and at the same time, players are entirely rethinking their distribution strategy.

Take the agent and broker channels, which are still fairly dominant in our industry: gen AI will change that game. I’m quite optimistic that over the next two or three years, we will see these things happening.

Fritz Nauck: There are a few other themes I’m hearing more about as executives turn the page to 2024. One is the focus on the balance sheet, particularly among life, retirement, and wealth managers. They’re looking at asset management and the balance sheet, including what blocks to have on the balance sheet, what to reinsure, and how to think about third-party capital. In a rapidly changing interest rate environment, this has been a big focus in North America and globally.

I’ll also mention operating models. I think all the changes we’ve talked about come down to a question of how you organize what’s important. How do you drive change through large organizations? What happens globally or regionally? What should be done in-house versus what should be outsourced, and how do you do that so you keep a source of differentiation?

Turning to innovation, what are the innovations you’ve heard about that are most exciting?

Jörg Mußhoff: Gen AI is obviously top of mind for everyone here, right? I think every presentation has mentioned gen AI and related work. We will see a drastic change in thinking about call center activities, which will both dramatically change the way we interact with customers and fundamentally impact our cost structures in these support areas. I think this innovation is real, and the use cases from some of the more innovative players are supporting that change.

But there are quite a few more innovations. We see newly focused models. Embedded insurance is a significant growth area globally in all types of industries—think about telcos and OEMs. We have 30 or 40 very innovative claims players here today.

Fritz Nauck: The other area where I expect innovation is broadly in data. Every executive has realized that to take advantage of the benefits of the cloud and technology and the benefits of AI and gen AI, their data architecture and data usage has to be clean and updated frequently with the right data. So I think there’s much more focus on the underlying data: where you get it, how it’s updated, what the lineage is, and how the model is validated to capture the benefits of new technology.

Another one is risk. The insurance industry by itself—and even with reinsurers—is not sufficiently capitalized to help every person and company protect against the range of risk they have. And so there’s the notion of how to enable third-party capital to enter by correctly identifying risks, measuring the risks, and then transferring those risks into the trenches that third-party capital is willing to invest in—as either a hedge or a pure investment. That has obviously happened for a long time, but it is on the cusp of increasing significantly given the evolving nature of risks.

Jörg Mußhoff: Yes, absolutely.

Jörg Mußhoff is a senior partner in McKinsey’s Berlin office, and Fritz Nauck is a senior partner in the Carolinas office.

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COMMENTS

  1. 110 Fashion Research Paper Topics: A Compelling List

    Updated 15 Feb 2024 Fashion research paper topics are sometimes hard to come up with, as this subject is a popular context that changes rapidly. Still, we are all surrounded by trends in our daily lives - we always wear clothes that express our unique sense of style, so there is actually a lot to write about here.

  2. Fashion industry challenges and global disruptions

    Roberta Fusaro: Achim, the world has changed since we published The State of Fashion 2022 report. What are the changes that have had the greatest effect on fashion and the textile industry? Achim Berg: The invasion into Ukraine is one of those topics not fully on our radar in November or December.

  3. The State of Fashion 2023: Resilience in the Face of Uncertainty

    The seventh annual State of Fashion report by The Business of Fashion and McKinsey & Company reveals the industry is heading for a global slowdown in 2023 as macroeconomic tensions and slumping consumer confidence chip away at 2022′s gains.

  4. The State of Fashion 2024 report

    (128 pages) Storm clouds are gathering, but the experience of recent years shows how the fashion industry may ride out the challenges ahead. In 2022, the industry again showed its resilience, almost equaling the record economic profit of 2021, the McKinsey Global Fashion Index shows.

  5. Full article: Navigating sustainability in the fashion industry

    Abstract. Sustainability is an urgent topic for the global fashion system's full evolution, although coping with it is not a simple task because of the extensive attention, discussions, and media coverage that sustainability in the fashion industry has received in recent years.

  6. PDF The State of Fashion 2021

    to luxury. As a global fashion industry and retail expert, he supports clients on a broad range of strategic and top management topics, as well as on operations and sourcing- related issues. IMRAN AMED As founder, editor-in-chief and chief executive of The Business of Fashion, Imran Amed is one of the fashion industry's leading writers,

  7. The year in fashion

    A look back at the important fashion stories of 2022 After two years dominated by the pandemic, in 2022 the fashion and luxury industry faced new global challenges, including the war in Ukraine ...

  8. Sustainability trends and gaps in the textile, apparel and fashion

    The findings reveal three primary research areas in the TAF context: consumers' behaviour towards sustainable clothing, circular economy initiatives, and sustainability challenges across the whole supply chain. As a result, this study highlights literature gaps and provides future research suggestions for each identified research cluster.

  9. Why Fashion Needs to Be More Sustainable

    Fashion, and especially fast fashion, has enormous environmental impacts on our planet, as well as social ones. Since the 2000s, fashion production has doubled and it will likely triple by 2050, according to the American Chemical Society. The production of polyester, used for much cheap fast fashion, as well as athleisure wear, has increased ...

  10. Full article: A review of digital fashion research: before and beyond

    The fashion industry is benefiting from such advances in multiple ways. ... New research topics within the sub-categories could then have emerged since the collection of the data on which this study is based. ... B. Haris, & R. Hassan (Eds.), Contemporary management and science issues in the halal industry (pp. 263-280). Singapore: Springer ...

  11. The global environmental injustice of fast fashion

    Fast fashion, inexpensive and widely available of-the-moment garments, has changed the way people buy and dispose of clothing. By selling large quantities of clothing at cheap prices, fast fashion has emerged as a dominant business model, causing garment consumption to skyrocket. While this transition is sometimes heralded as the "democratization" of fashion in which the latest styles are ...

  12. Sustainability trends and gaps in the textile, apparel and fashion

    13 Citations 1 Altmetric Explore all metrics Abstract Textile, apparel, and fashion (TAF) industries contribute significantly to global environmental pollution at every point of the supply chain.

  13. 11 Fashion Industry Challenges to Overcome in 2024

    Top 11 Fashion Industry Challenges in 2024 With consumer behaviour significantly altered, digital transformation accelerating rapidly, and concern around issues such as sustainability and diversity growing, the industry will face challenges new and old as it continues its recovery.

  14. Evaluation and trend of fashion design research: visualization analysis

    Sustainable fashion refers to the research topic having aroused more attention since 2010, while new research topics over the past few years consist of "wearable fashion", "transgender fashion" and "medical fashion". The overall research trend of fashion design is developing as interdisciplinary cross research.

  15. The postpandemic state of the fashion industry

    In last year's report, we said, "Sustainability will be the big topic in 2020." Despite the fact that obviously the coronavirus crisis was the big topic, sustainability still stayed hugely relevant. ... It's a whole revisit of how the fashion industry works and to reimagine it in a way that's future-proof. ... Because one of the key ...

  16. Knowledge roadmap of sustainable development in ...

    Practices in the textile and apparel industry (TAI) have led to numerous environmental and social problems, which have prompted extensive research on the sustainable development of the textile and apparel industry (SDTAI). This paper presents a comprehensive and quantitative analysis of the status quo in the SDTAI domain using scientometrics. From 1987 to 2019, the Web of Science core ...

  17. 117 Fashion Research Topics| Top List Of Ideas

    117 Awesome Fashion Research Topics: Inspirational Ideas List Finding some decent fashion research topics that you can use for your next papers is not easy nowadays. You want something new, something original. Your classmates are probably scouring the Internet as we speak, so why are you still wasting time?

  18. Fashion industry News, Research and Analysis

    December 18, 2022 Wool swimsuits used to be standard beachwear - is it time to bring them back? Lorinda Cramer, Australian Catholic University With concern mounting over microplastics and the...

  19. 2020's biggest fashion trends reflect a world in crisis

    CNN —. To look back at the year in fashion is to look back at a year of crisis. In the first few months of 2020, as the severity and scale of the coronavirus pandemic became clear, businesses ...

  20. Fashion Communication Research. A Way Ahead

    Ideas have been crowdsourced from all participants (about twenty-five) on four main dimensions: (a) research topics; (b) research methods and limitations; (c) collaborations with the industry; and (d) teaching/learning activities.

  21. Top themes defining the fashion industry in 2020

    Created by a team of industry experts, and incorporating interviews, deep dives, and a survey of fashion's top executives, The State of Fashion 2020, written in partnership with The Business of Fashion (BoF), identifies the top ten fashion industry themes for the year ahead (exhibit).

  22. The Most Intriguing Fashion Research Topics and Ideas for 2023

    These tips will help you select a fascinating and doable research topic about fashion. With the right ideas, thorough research and quality writing, your paper can be thought-provoking while providing new perspectives on the industry's trends for 2023! In 2023, there are plenty of intriguing research topics within the fashion industry to explore.

  23. The Excerpt podcast: Fast fashion should give all of us pause

    Finally, Elizabeth, and we've dug into a lot of the various issues surrounding fast fashion, pretty much everything we've touched on today, the lawsuits, the labor practices, the waste has to do ...

  24. Gartner Identifies the Top Cybersecurity Trends for 2024

    Generative AI (GenAI), unsecure employee behavior, third-party risks, continuous threat exposure, boardroom communication gaps and identity-first approaches to security are the driving forces behind the top cybersecurity trends for 2024, according to Gartner, Inc. "GenAI is occupying significant headspace of security leaders as another challenge to manage, but also offers an opportunity to ...

  25. The State of Fashion 2020

    to luxury. As a global fashion industry and retail expert, he supports clients on a broad range of strategic and top management topics, as well as on operations and sourc-ing-related issues. IMRAN AMED As founder, editor-in-chief and chief executive of The Business of Fashion, Imran Amed is one of the fashion industry's leading

  26. McKinsey insurance leadership on 2024 trends and innovations

    The insurance industry is going through changes, many of which are fueled by developments in AI. In this episode of the McKinsey on Insurance podcast, Jörg Mußhoff and Fritz Nauck, McKinsey senior partners and coleaders of the Insurance Practice, sat down for a discussion at the 2023 InsureTech Connect conference in Las Vegas.They talked about the trends and innovations they're seeing in ...